Official Luthiers Forum!

Well I finally got my kit in from martin.. I have a question about one thing. On the top where the circle inlay is for the sound hole at the top part of the inlay circles they are missing pieces of the inlay and stuff im pretty sure this will be hidden underneath the neck but is this normal?

Yes
Typically at 12 o'clock on the rosette, it is covered by the fingerboard.

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

yes, as others have said, the gap is normal.

but, now that you have your kit, first check to see if everything which should be there is there. is it a serviced kit, i.e., bent sides, plates joined and thicknessed, etc.? if so, get the sides into your mold soonest, the plates stickered. then review your building sequence, assess your relative humidity situation in your workshop/work area, make appropriate decisions on how to cope, take some deep breathing exercises, and.... have fun!!!!!crazymanmichael39106.8868981482

hehe i already have my sides sitting in the mold.. I have been kindof searching around for what kind of wood i need to be using for this. I havent really found specific answers. Its a martin d-28 kit so the back and sides are rosewood and top is spruce. I have elmers wood glue but i kindof have the feeling i shouldnt use it. What kind of glue do i need for specific pieces?

Congratulations, and welcome to the madness!

I hate to be the first to say it, but it is important: Consider taking some time to search the archives of the OLF. There you will find hours, and hours, and hours of reading on practically every topic you can imagine related to your kit, and building in general. (with many great photos and tutorials, too)

For example, one quick search for just the word "glue" turned up over 2000 references. Undoubtedly, you'll learn more in those threads than you ever wanted to know about glue...and that will go a very long way in answering some of your questions. Then, if you need some clarification, come back to the regular threads and ask...and someone will be happy to help.

Now to your question: there are many types of glues. Many people use Original Titebond, many LMI White, many Hide glue and I've seen others use varying types of wood glues. Some people epoxy certain parts of the guitar, or build with a combination of glues to create what they consider to be the best synergy for the guitar's construction and tone. It varies, a lot.

What you use will ultimately depend on many factors: strength of the glue, difficulty of use, expense, repairability, etc.   In other words, there is no one "correct" answer: I built my kit using O'Titebond for everything.

Again, hit those archives and you'll find explicit, detailed information on glues, their uses, complexity, strengths/weakness, etc. AND, MOST IMPORTANTLY, you'll be reading this information from some of the best names in the business. Can't get much better than that.

Great to have you getting started. Looking forward to your progress.

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

wood for what?????

on the subject of glue, as this is your first build i would encourage you to get some tite bond original, not the II or III, or alternatively, to my mind preferably, but you will no doubt hear contrary opinions, the lmi luthiers glue. both offer good open time, i.e., a reasonable amount of time between spreading the glue and it starting to set up, to allow you to get clamps in place. the lmi cures harder.

as you progress you will no doubt want to try, progress, graduate, or whatever, to hot hide glue or the new, trendy glue of the moment, fish glue. get a few successful builds under your belt first.

and if you have questions, ask. the only dumb, stupid question is the the one not asked. everyone here has had to ask them of someone, and they will try to give you the best of their confusion er... noo... ah.. gee... but.. i really.. er wanted to say, ah \... knowledge. really, we do try hard...

Cool, Ill just go simple and get the tite bond then. I just wanted to make sure I didnt need different glues for certain pieces. I'll probably take some pictures as I progress for your entertainment

take your time, rehearse every move until it becomes second nature before you even think of wetting any wood with glue. that means you put every clamp in place, tightened appropriately, over and over again until it is boring, then think about reaching for your glue bottle. then stop, do it again the next day, then reach for the glue bottle.

i know it seems pedantic and painfully slow, but it will help to allow you to have a successful build.

and did i say it before, have fun with the tightening of every clamp, the checking of every measurement, the checking of every measurement, the checking of every measurment. did i mention the checking of every measurement?

someday you will be putting the strings on and breaking out in a cold sweat and ....   ....   ....

aah....

[QUOTE=Bill Greene] Congratulations, and welcome to the madness!

I hate to be the first to say it, but it is important: Consider taking some time to search the archives of the OLF. There you will find hours, and hours, and hours of reading on practically every topic you can imagine related to your kit, and building in general. (with many great photos and tutorials, too)

For example, one quick search for just the word "glue" turned up over 2000 references. [/QUOTE]

Not only that Bill, our friend here will get to read most of the finest of my 7000 posts i've written in the last year, a few of them containing a great series of LOL BUTTONS which will help make his search very enjoyable IMVHO.




Would, good advice on the Titebond, keep that first build as simple as you can and it will go smooth!

Have fun!

Serge

Did you get a mold with this kit?

Mike

yesir i got a mold from blues creek the sides are sitting in the mold now i guess ill get that glue from ace hardware walmart doesnt carry it.. so tommorow ill spend the day clamping and unclamping various pieces then friday ill glue Would39107.0911226852

Is there supposed to be some kind of gap in the sides? I clamped the sides lightly against the mold that i got and the ends at the neck have a gap between them.. This martin book is pretty vague

well it says im supposed to put inlay on the back of the "rim"... i have the sides sitting in the mold and i have the back block clamped on i put the sides touching where the block is clamped but if i go around the mold and clamp the sides to the mold to fit it perfectly i end up with about a centimeter gap where the sides would meet at the neck.. Im not sure if the kit is wanting me to compensate and make a gap at the back for the inlay or cut a gap out after i glue..

What is the possibility that the mold is just off? when i set the sides in the mold they align perfectly at the center points of the mold its just there are some gaps on the sides.

im not using spreaders im just clamping the sides to the mold with small clamps

ok i pmed you my email address

you really can't judge the fit until you have your spreaders made, nor can you begin gluing anything. have a look at hesh's pics, and the plethora of those on the forum, and make them before you do anything else.

I am definitely gonna watch this thread...my BluesCreek D21 is on its way...maybe we can learn from each oher as well as the pros in here.

Mike

yeah, i wasnt talking down about the mold or anything but i have some definite gap that ill need to deal with some how. it might need to be like this i dunno the instructions dont tell ANYTHING

Would Greetings!

The mold is fine I am sure, communicate with Hesh, take his advice he is very good at explaining things so don't get overly excited. Can you post any pics of what you are talking about while the sides are in the mold?

Mike

if, after you get your spreaders installed the sides are still too short, call the supplier. the wrong sides may have been put in the kit. it is normal for the sides to be longer than necessary, not too short.