Official Luthiers Forum!

Another great tutorial, Hesh!

Do you have any feel or intuition as to what the maximum gap size might be using this method?

Pete

By the way, great photography!

Looks great Hesh! And it works on spruce too, that's even better.

Do you let the glue tack up for a while before doing the sanding?

_________________
Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Absolutely and totally excellent, Hesh. That's how I fill gaps too- it's great to know an expert like yerself is using the same technique!!

I must add, there is a step before the identification with-a-chalk-circle-process...

A few French words....

Hesh, you need to start your own school, or at least do some instrutional dvd's. I'd buy'em

                                Red

[QUOTE=redennis3]

Hesh, you need to start your own school, or at least do some instrutional dvd's. I'd buy'em

                                  Red

[/QUOTE]

That would be a couple of great ideas Red, only problem is Hesh likes to build o'natural if you know what I mean    

_________________
My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

     I've mixed saw dust separately, like many of us do, but this little idea saves some trouble and get a little more specific.

Thanks for another ich Heshatorial!

    I wonder if this would work on acne!

_________________
Billy Dean Thomas
Covina, CA

"Multi famam, conscientiam, pauci verentur."
(Many fear their reputation, few their conscience)

Wow, that's really impressive. Maybe I'll try it afterall.

[QUOTE=Rod True] [QUOTE=redennis3]

Hesh, you need to start your own school, or at least do some instrutional dvd's. I'd buy'em

                                  Red

[/QUOTE]



That would be a couple of great ideas Red, only problem is Hesh likes to build o'natural if you know what I mean     [/QUOTE]

AAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!
You have ruined my picture if Hesh working diligently in his sho wearing his pink drawers with the glasses on them.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

[QUOTE=Hesh1956]Sorry Waddy we posted at nearly the same time.



Maybe I should do some pics????? [/QUOTE]

Seems the last one I saw you were only wearing a rosette.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Definitely! Thanks for taking the time!

Oh Yeah! Hesh, good tutorial.. The Tootman cometh through again! 

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

The trick to gaps is not to have them.. unfortunately that's not always
feasible. The best way to fix a gap so that it cannot be noticed is not to just
fill the gap but to close it. The best way to do that is to put some water on
the area and let the titebond come to the surface..it will pop out, and you
take a needle and pick out the old glue. A gap can't close with old glue in it.
Then once it is clear of all old glue take a soldering iron and steam it..that
will loosen and swell the fibers. Then take a micro chisel and "pull" the fiber
back into the gap (your not actually scraping, but you can barely move the
wood fibers into the gap). then you seam it again selling it more. Then
superglue the area with thin CA to keep the swollen fibers from shrinking
back to normal. Then scrap it flush and viola no gap, and no glue filled
area.

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Thanks John!

Hesh, thank you too. Your illustration involves two woods without a lot of contrast. What about maple next to EIR? Which color do you try to fill with, light or dark?

(for every problem there's a tougher question    )

_________________
Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Just a thought but as an addendum, and I'm gettin kinda picky, I would suggest using the cheaper non-stearated papers for this as the stearate separates from the paper and could leave unwanted specks in your fill.

Great toot Hesh

I'm definitely going to try this tomorrow. John, is the water room temp.
or hot?

I have a crack in figured maple binding to repair.  I have some maple sanding dust that I could pack in the crack.  Wondering if I should use CA or Titebond on it?

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

[QUOTE=ToddStock]If you are planning on staining after gap-filling, consider using liquid or hot hide glue for this technique - either takes stain far better than TB. A hide glue wash is a classic stain control technique, and is very useful on maple and cherry to prevent the sort of blotching that is routinely seen with these woods.



[/QUOTE]

Todd:

Does the bottled/prepared hide glue have the same properties as the HHG?  I mean for the purpose of stain control / gap filling, not gluing.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

room temp at first, but then of course it gets steamed/boiled with a
soldering iron after the first time pulling the fiber towards the gap. It'll be a
month or more but I'll post some pics of the technique when I bind my next
guitar providing I have gaps...

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

[QUOTE=Ricardo] I have a crack in figured maple binding to repair.  I have some maple sanding dust that I could pack in the crack.  Wondering if I should use CA or Titebond on it?
[/QUOTE] Test it first. I don't know about Titebond, but if you use CA, it will be darker. You are probably better off with liquid hide glue.

Does anyone know about using fish glue for this?

_________________
"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.