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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 5:11 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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room temp at first, but then of course it gets steamed/boiled with a
soldering iron after the first time pulling the fiber towards the gap. It'll be a
month or more but I'll post some pics of the technique when I bind my next
guitar providing I have gaps...

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 7:55 am 
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[QUOTE=Ricardo] I have a crack in figured maple binding to repair.  I have some maple sanding dust that I could pack in the crack.  Wondering if I should use CA or Titebond on it?
[/QUOTE] Test it first. I don't know about Titebond, but if you use CA, it will be darker. You are probably better off with liquid hide glue.

Does anyone know about using fish glue for this?

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2007 8:30 am 
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You know, you might be able to use gelatin, if your hide glue is not totally clear.  The gelatin would be clear, and dries at a higher strength than regular hide glue.  I was just reading about that on the Frets website.  I think he said the gelatin strength is in the 300+ range instead of 192.  Just a thought.

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 5:43 am 
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Hey guys

I just wanted to give an update. Gaps. The kind of update you hate to
give

I worked with Hesh's method and didn't have the same success. I think
our results were different because I'd already applied some filler. I'm
impulsive

I'm working with John's method right now, using water and picking at my
rosette with a needle. It work extremely well, and I'm getting rid of some
of the wood slivers I packed in there that just don't look right. I've
accidently removed some purfling in the process. Thankfully it's black
and I'll be able to draw it back on.


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 6:04 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Sorry to here that James.

One of the tricks to making the sliver or planed curls to work invisibly is to get them the right size so that one will do the job with a nice tight fit. The glue will cause the splint to swell some. This should should make any seam between the splint and the rest of the top near invisible.

The other big trick is to keep the gap and or curing joint free of any wood dust or dirt so that splint can swell tightly against the top


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 10:15 am 
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[QUOTE=Rod True]
That would be a couple of great ideas Red, only problem is Hesh likes to build o'natural if you know what I mean     [/QUOTE]

Arrrrrgggghhhh!

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2007 10:16 am 
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I see my sentiments of Hesh au natural were posted earlier....at least I have the satisfaction of knowing I'm in the majority!

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