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Can I reglue a rosewood bridge with hide glue that was previosly glued with PVA glue? I've scraped off the PVA but do I need to remove some of the wood to make sure all of the PVA is gone? Or is there a solvent I can use to clean?

TIA

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Horton, MI

De Glue Goo.

Thanks Rick,

Just what I needed.

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Horton, MI

Rick,
Glad to see you have a thick skin to go with your hard a##.

I for one like having your experience around.

All who say you should be Mr. Nice Guy, should take a swig from their own medicine bottle.

Bruce

Oh by the way, I hope you're not getting PM'ed to death. I got one recently calling me an A##hole, how wonder, positive, and uplifting some OLFers can be.

Thanks for the glue goo idea, may need that one day.

Oh, and Rick, would you like to read my old Dale Carnegie book, "How to Win Friends and Influence People?"   

Put that rock down, now!

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

Hi Kirt,

You can use hide glue once all surfaces have been cleared of PVA, Plain old white glue PVA (Polyvinyl acetates). Because it's water base it would have penetrated the wood surfaces. However, I see no reason why HG couldn't be used. I wouldn't remove much wood just scrape off the old PVA, sand lightly to expose the wood and glue with HG.

Good luck.

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Michael Lloyd

“I was born to ignorance, yes, and lesser poverties ...
I was born to privilege that I did not see ... I didn’t know it, but my way was paved” – John Gorka

Thanks Michael,

I'll be ordering the de glue goo. After Googling it, it looks like the right thing to do. Get rid of all that residual glue left in the nooks and crannies. I think I should use hide glue now, but I'd like to hear some other opinions....

Here's a pic:

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Horton, MI

Bruce, I've gotten a number of PMs, mostly extremely positive and one that I think turned into a good exchange.   At my age, I really don't much care what people think of me. What I do kind of mind is people parroting ideas they've read about but never tried. There's an awful lot of second hand "experience" around that is just plain wrong; where it came from is wrong, and it doesn't get right in the repeating. I don't have all the answers, but I do have some. If people would ask questions about things with which they have little or no experience or be ready to cite sources for what they are parroting, there might be less misinformation here and elsewhere. But people love to see their names on the screen and so they chime in as experts on subjects into which they haven't put in the time needed to really gain understanding.

I'm seeing experience as a negative here at times...it's resented.

[QUOTE=Rick Turner] .....I'm seeing experience as a negative here at times...it's resented.[/QUOTE]

Gosh, I hope not. That would be sad.

I was put off by your style at first. It wouldn't be my style, but that's not really important.
I'm a new builder with less than 10 guitars completed.

Thank you for sharing what you have learned so freely. I've learned a lot from you. I hope you continue here. Your presence and knowledge is welcomed by me and most of us that just want to learn to be better at making guitars.

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"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.

[QUOTE=Rick Turner] There's an awful lot of second hand "experience" around that is just plain wrong; where it came from is wrong, and it doesn't get right in the repeating.
QUOTE]

Rick...perhaps you could provide a service to us all by being a "Myth Buster" of sorts and listing those practices which you consider questionable at best. I've been away from the forum lately and may have missed those salient posts.

BTW...I appreciate your contributions to our forum and am happy to hear that you are immune to the personal attacks that can occur via PMs. It was Mario who decided to leave after some blistering personal PM attacks. The vast majority of us miss him and I personally would be saddened to see another "No BS Pro" castigated and banished. Since you've been stopping by lately I've already sensed a reduction in the number of non-fact-based posts that would otherwise have gone unchallenged. That alone has been a major contribution to our continuing education. Thanks!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Hi Rick,

You are a valued member of this forum and I haven't heard or read anyone say otherwise. However, I wish you could bring it upon yourself to hold back on giving reason for why others post. Example "But people love to see their names on the screen and so they chime in as experts on subjects into which they haven't put in the time needed to really gain understanding." A comment of such adds nothing to the thread and can reduce your credibility as a communicator.

I chimed in here to give what I felt was and is valid advice. It’s from my own experience and it’s what I have to draw on right or wrong. If you think I am wrong then say so. By the way I don't believe you are pointing your discontentment towards me.

I also think that to PM someone it should be a positive message and if otherwise it could be grounds for dismissal from the form. No one should be subject to such attacks.

In closing I appreciate the info on De Glue Goo and am looking forward to using it, particularly in clean-ups.

Thanks and much appreciated.

P.S. We all can learn something if we allow ourselves the privilege.

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Michael Lloyd

“I was born to ignorance, yes, and lesser poverties ...
I was born to privilege that I did not see ... I didn’t know it, but my way was paved” – John Gorka

Rick (or anyone else for that matter) do you know if the De Glue Goo will affect finishes? I often find the little piece of squeeze out from the bridge that I didn't get cleaned up. I hate going at it with a chisel or scraper because without fail I ding the finish. Any thoughts?

According to the De Glue Goo website it's not particularly harmful to finishes but it is water based and they recommend wiping it off.

I'd think hide glue would be easier than others for squeeze out cleanup, but I'd like to hear other opinions too.

My De Glue Goo is on order from Woodcraft.

Thanks,

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Horton, MI

The GAL's American Lutherie magazine had a review of De Glue Goo a few issues ago. The reviewer got results as advertised, with pictures to prove it. He wrote that it works slowly, though, so patience is required. Apparently there is no danger of weakening glued joints, either. It has a thick consistancy, and only goes after exposed glue.

What Carlton said...

We're doing catalyzed polyester finishes, and the stuff doesn't touch it, and my friend Cat Fox has used it a lot around nitro and reports no problems.   I wouldn't necessarily leave it gooped on over night, but for how long it takes to soften the glue, I don't think it's an issue.

[QUOTE=CarltonM] The GAL's American Lutherie magazine had a review of De Glue Goo a few issues ago. The reviewer got results as advertised, with pictures to prove it. He wrote that it works slowly, though, so patience is required. Apparently there is no danger of weakening glued joints, either. It has a thick consistancy, and only goes after exposed glue.[/QUOTE]
For folks that don't have the GAL issue (#87):
Mike Tagawa (the GAL reviewer) made a point of emphasizing that he removed the 'GOO' residue from the bridge area with a water rinse before re-gluing. The De Glue Goo website doesn't mention this step, but it sounds like a pretty good idea to me.

Cheers
John

I'm not sure what the active ingredient is in Deglue Goo, but acetic acid will break down PVA and AR glues. I was told about this by a student who knew some of the folks in the restoration department at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. She said they have two formal Anathemas that they pronounce every morning; one on the people who use Titebond to repair antiques, and the other on the people who use wood screws....

Anyway, some time later I had the job of removing a top from an upright bass. It had been sanded thin around the edges (to get back past the chippout) and then glued on with Titebond. It took five hours, but I got it without further damaging the already badly cracked top. One thing that helped: my friend gave me some methyl cellulose powder that she'd got from the museum folks, to mix with the vinegar. It forms a gel, and keeps the stuff where you put it, as well as slowing evaporation.

One other thing: if you use it, get a stainless steel knife or spatula to pry with. Vinegar and iron react to form ferric acetate, a traditional black dye for wood.

And, as a bonus, your shop will smell like chips for a couple days!

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

By the way, I used the de glue over the weekend. It worked great.

I put it on and covered it with saran wrap for about 30 minutes, then I scraped with a razorblade and used some scotchbrite with a little water to clean off the goo residue. Looks like fresh clean wood now.

It smells like vinegar. So I bet you could make your own for 1/10 the cost. Alan probably has the formula pegged.

I used to used vinegar on cane seat chairs to break down hide glue on the splines. I didn't know it would work on plastic glues too.

Thanks for the tip.

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Horton, MI