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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:51 pm 
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Walnut
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Location: United States
While I was making the rosewood bridge for my '37 Hauser model classical, I made the depth of my final cut (removing 2mm behind the tieblock, 5.5mm deep) deeper than I should have. I completed shaping the bridge, but now I only have 1mm at the rear of the bridge, behind the tailblock and continuing along each wing. The wings themselves are 4mm thick, but they taper to 1mm - in line with the rear of the tieblock.

Should I use this one, or make a new one?

I know it's a small amount to be off, but it's half of what it should be, and I'm wondering if it will have a sonic or structural impact. It looks ok, but I'd just as soon buy another blank and make another if it will have an adverse effect on the sound or structure.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:56 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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How about a picture. I am an expert at ruining bridge blanks with too deep cuts (those darn japanese saws [headinwall] ) but I can't understand exactly what is wrong with yours...

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:06 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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I guess I am not following well. You have a step down at the rear of your bridge. Most classical bridges I have seen the back edge of the tie block is the back edge of the bridge.

If I am following tight you flush off the the bridge so that the back edge of the tie block is the back edge of the bridge. If you could post a picture it would be easier to follow what you are saying, so I am not sure as to your deli ma.

I will say that if you have a step down behind the tie block that is .039" or 1mm That area would be giving little or no strength to the bridge footprint


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:40 pm 
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Walnut
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Here is a crude drawing of the bridge...

http://www.geocities.com/ducdark/Guitar/scan.jpg
The dark line represents the edge that's 1mm high by 2mm wide.

Hauser made the tailblock a bit more narrow so that it appears set in 2mm from the edge of the bridge.
When I get home I can post an actual photo.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:49 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Then I am thinking correctly. This will neither hurt nor help It would be of some help if it were thicker but as most classical bridges end at the back of the tie block, I think you will be fine.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:07 pm 
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Contributing Member
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You are talking about the "lip" at the edge of the bridge which extends out behind the tie block and merges with the wings beyond the ends of the tie block. This does extend the leverage of the bridge back a bit over the design where the block is squared off at the end.........both designs work fine.......
If I remember right the Hauser '37 bridge is around 26mm
wide overall.............have you reduced the overall width or just ended up with a thinner edge on the wings because of the deepr cut??
Either way I don't think you have a problem unless you want to more closely copy the original. On my own classical design I usually make the bridge narrower with thinner wing than most to keep it flexible and look somewhat more refined..................never had a structural problem with the slightly smaller and thinner bridge.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:28 pm 
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Walnut
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David LaPlante wrote:
If I remember right the Hauser '37 bridge is around 26mm
wide overall.............have you reduced the overall width or just ended up with a thinner edge on the wings because of the deepr cut??


The bridge is 27mm wide, and yes, I kept it the width indicated in the plan but ended up with a thinner edge. Except for the thickness of the edge it's an accurate copy of the Hauser bridge.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:45 pm 
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Contributing Member
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First name: David
Last Name: LaPlante
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Should not be a problem.........


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