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In an effort to keep working on my Weissenborn Style guitar, I would like to know If the domed back can be glued on the rims first, because I don't have a top yet.

I read a thread that seems to suggest that the back can go on first, however the backs in the thread were all x bracked. I don't know If that makes a difference or not.

I'm going to use the back bracing pattern on the MIMF plans. The link to the thread is below. Thanks for any clarification on this matter.

viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=14066&hilit=+put+back+top+first

Ron Mack

I've done it both ways. I find it easier to glue on the back first.
I don't see that it would make any difference if the back was X or ladder braced.
I find it a bit tricky to get the box positioned & supported so the neck area doesn't twist under clamping pressure.
Using a Fox style adjustable workboard, the sides stay true as the back is glued on in my go bar deck... It gets trickier when you set up to glue on the top. The curved & domed back make for some creative solutions.
I'd like to hear any tricks others have tried... My method could definitely use some refining.

Hey Daniel,
Are you saying that you've put the back on first, on a Weissenborn Style guitar? Thanks.

With the longitudinal arch in the weissenborn back, you have to spring the back into shape as you glue it on.
I would not do this before putting on the top, you could warp the sides.
Better to wait, glue the top on then the back

I always put the top on first for the exact reason Jeff mentioned. You could glue the back on a few hours after you glue the top on so you wouldn't really save much time doing it the other way simply because you don't have a top.

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Richard
http://www.guitarmaker.com

Daniel,

One advantage of an X braced back is that it gives the long arch doming and you don't need to "force" the back into the lengthwise arch when gluing. With the sides properly shaped the only pressure you need is for the hollow neck piece, but using doubled up brown tape is all I ususally need to glue the back on. I glued the back first of my double neck this way. I had put carbon fibre bracing in the hollow arms between the reverse kerfed linings and this kept the hollow neck area nice and square.

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

Thanks to everyone for your insights and comments. Well, I guess there will be a work stoppage until I get a top, circle cutter etc... Thanks for the pictures Dave, they're very interesting.

Thanks for the explanation Dave... I was wondering why you "trussed" the neck area. It seemed like overkill from a structural standpoint, but now makes perfect sense!
Ron; Yes I glued the back on first on a Weiss... But to prevent any distortion, the sides were firmly held in alignment on a workboard. (with the usual spreaders inside, plus a "go stick" from the heel to the head block) I installed the top linings & sanded in the arch, after the back was installed, so I knew that the sides would lay flat & true on the workboard.
Dave's method looks better thought out & easier.

Thanks Daniel.

Ron Mack

Please begrudge a newb - are you talking about something like sown in this link from the LINT site: http://www.lint.org/TechNotes/Articulat ... erarm1.jpg

Cheers,
Curtis

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Cheers,
Curtis Olson
Hamilton, VA