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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:20 am 
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Walnut
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Well, I made my first mistake on my first guitar. I had my top aligned perfectly and set a few go bars and rechecked. Everything looked great so I started adding more bars. I didn't notice things had shifted until it was too late. The tail block end stayed aligned, but the heel block end is off by 1.5-2mm.

Is this enough to translate into a super noticeable issue? The only thing I can think of is that the relationship b/t the FB extension and the soudhole is going to look a little wonky. Is there anything else to be concerned about? I'm useing a pre-made bolt-on neck so the mortis is already routed into the heel block.

Thanks,
Chris


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:37 am 
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Koa
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Happens... If it's for you, don't worry about it; it's not structural, and won't harm a thing. If the instrument will be sold, remove the top....


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 6:46 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Also, in addition to what Grumpy said, usually the braces (X-braces and upper transverse brace) are inlet into the kerfed lining. These braces also serve, when properly inlet, as a sort of snap in place fit for the top.

I wanted to ask you if you inlet these braces?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:03 am 
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Happens as Mario says. If really bad or being sold fix it. Another reason for good tight inlets and tucks, but may still happen. One thing I do is use some tape at the headblock on centerline and same at endblock, it just secures it a little more. I don't use go bars so maybe that only helps when doing it in a press.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:43 am 
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Not that you asked ;)
But I drill two small holes (finish nail size) through the top into the neck block (under the fretboard surface) They act as locating pins and stop that end of the top from moving around. This leaves only the end to worry about getting centered. Like Stan, I tape it in place before clamping.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:57 am 
Check your measurements exactly - if you are under 1/16" (or 1.6mm), I honestly don't think the problem will be all that noticeable. Ideally, you will want to have a tolerance of under 1/32" (0.8mm). I do think a lot would depend on the body shape and size - a bigger shape will make that 1.5mm discrepancy much less noticeable than say a parlor or classical sized guitar.

Your neck should be aligned with the centerline of your soundboard - if the soundboard centerline is off too much then it could look like the soundhole is closer to one side of the body than the other.

Best of luck,
Simon


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Most of us do something to conquer alignment problems.

I temporarily glue wooden blocks to my mold, right before gluing the top or back. It's amazing how quickly PVA glue will tack to the point of not moving. These little blocks serve the same purpose as Lance's neck block pins, only they are external to the finish material of the guitar, so work well on the tail as well.

Gluing up needs to proceed quickly and does. Having a way to drop the top or back perfectly into registry without even thinking is really great. This is afforded to me via the six to eight upright blocks glued temporarily to the mold. A system of screwed in place blocks would be better, as I have to quickly rap the side if each block and clean them up with a sharp chisel and it can do minor damage to the mold, but rarely does.

Great question, good luck on your selected solution, nothing could be simpler than tape, may just try that, but my blocks are fool-proof, which I need desperately. laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:03 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

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Hesh wrote:
Also, in addition to what Grumpy said, usually the braces (X-braces and upper transverse brace) are inlet into the kerfed lining. These braces also serve, when properly inlet, as a sort of snap in place fit for the top.

I wanted to ask you if you inlet these braces?


Thanks to all that responded.

I let the UFB and lower X legs through the kerfing and sides, but, this my first and there was a little room for movement.

After I flush trim, I'll dry fit the neck and see what it looks like. If it's really bad, I guess I can enlarge the heel block mortis on one side, and glue a shim to the opposing side of the tenon to take up the slack....and then enlarge the bolt holes a little -- does that sound like the worst idea ever?

As Grumpy said, if it's for me, don't hassle it -- but if it looks too bad, it'll bug me.

Thanks,
Chris


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:13 am 
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Koa
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Chris,

Yes, it bugs you now. But as time passes, it will bug you less and less. In a few years, you might hardly remember or notice it. It's unlikely that anyone else will notice, unless it's one of us! :D But we'd forgive you.

My first has all sorts of irregularities that bugged me three years ago when I finished it. None of them matter now. It's presentable, still in one piece, plays well and sounds pretty good. That's all that matters to me for the first one.

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 10:03 am 
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Bruce Dickey wrote:
Great question, good luck on your selected solution, nothing could be simpler than tape, may just try that, but my blocks are fool-proof, which I need desperately. laughing6-hehe



Bruce, what are you saying? :D

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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2008 6:08 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I do what Lance does. I figured out a while back that the 1.4mm finishing nails you can get at Ace are a snug fit in a 1/16" drill hole. I use them for a lot of stuff. Top alignment, headstock veneers, bridge locators etc.
Terry

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