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It's just one of those days...

I've only got a very few days every month to do any building, this week containing quite a number of them in a row, so I figured I'd finish off the Williams/Fleishmann style binding jig (check, done that), set up the vacuum clamp to hold the body (check), selected the appropriate bearings (eyeballing, was going to do test cuts) for the StewMac binding set, and proceeded to pop the bit into the 310, all excited about finally test running the jig and moving forward on not one, but two guitars.

...and then the collet simply disintegrated while tightening. The top simply cracked open, so the collet nut now looks like, well, a regular nut, and applies zero pressure to the collet. I probably overtighten the thing a little, will try not to do that in future, but this isn't good.

Good thing: have found websites that have the part in stock.

Bad thing: none of them will ship internationally. And I don't have any other lam trimmers that will fit the jig.

Anyone out there willing to order me a couple of spares and ship them my direction (the Netherlands)? I'll PayPal you the funds.

The item in question:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/collet ... 60311.html

Mattia: The local PC/Black&Decker parts place has them. 7.23 each plus tax, but no shipping. I'll get them and ship them to you. You want 2?

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

As already said in PM: yes please!

Also, you have my undying gratitude and thanks. If there's anything I can do in return, don't hesitate to ask.

Mattia sorry this happened to you and my hats off, once again, for what a good guy Waddy is.

On both of my 310s the collet does not release the bit when the nut is loosened..... I have to give it a light tonk with a old screw driver and wooden mallet....... Beyond this inconvenience the 310's are great. But I am always concerned that tonking the collet may over time mess up the bearings......

But after hearing about the nut disintegrating this sounds like the clear weak link for PC with this laminate trimmer. I look forward to the day when I can afford to have multiple 310s or other laminate trimmers dedicated to single tasks and no tonking is required...

I've always had the sticking bit issue with routers. I'm not sure why. I always tap the side of the bit. What are some other fixes you've all found?

The best and safest way I have found to remove router bits is to loosen the collet nut a few turns and then rap on the side of the nut with the router wrench to pop the collet loose. You don't have to pry on anything or tap on the router bit itself. Usually the bit can be removed from the router without taking the nut completely off so there is no chance of loosing it, or the collet.

This is why after having one 310 (which I've had for some ten years), that all my new laminate trimmers are Bosch which have self releasing collets. I hate having to beat the #$@% out of a tool to get it to do what it should natively.

What Bosch trimmers are you using, David?

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Bosch Colts and I love 'em. In terms of trimmers here's what I got

Ryobi Trimmer, plastic housing dedicated for cutting the Taylor style upper transverse patch ledge in to the headblock.

Ryobi Trimmer, aluminu housing, dedicated for cutting the sides to profile in situ.

Porter Cable 310 -- cutting rosettes, rounding over the soundhole, flush trimming. It's rediculous that I use this one for all these changes, but until I buy more Colts, this is the way it'll have to be.

Bosch Colt: Endgraft
Bosch Colt: BInding, full depth
Bosch Colt: Binding, depth without side purfling
Bosch Colt: Top purfling
Bosch Colt: Top purfling -- Armrest
Bosch Colt: Back Purfling

If you feel you have to hammer on something, then support the loosened collet nut on a block of wood - so you won't shock the bearing - and rap the bit with a plastic hammer, or another block of wood.

Dan

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Dan
http://www.acme-archtops.com

Having fought porter-cable collets for years, I finally tried putting a very light coat of anti-seize on the outside of the collet. Works great. A tube of anti-seize can be obtained at any automotive supply store.

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Dean

Waddy

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

I wipe a little graphite powder on the collet and the inside taper. It helps a lot when releasing. I suspect that a older collet sticks more than a new one too.

Man, I would be very nervous about putting anything on the inside of the collet. I'd much rather have a bit that takes a little effort to remove than risk the possibility of the bit coming loose while in use. Also, I tighten all my collet nuts as tight as I can when installing a bit; once again, the last thing I want is a bit coming loose while in action. Anyway, to remove the bit, I just put a little block of wood against the collet nut and give it a little rap with the wrench, and the bit comes free. I've never done it, but it does seem like a good idea to put a block of wood under the nut as well, as Dan suggested. In any case, it only takes a second. Once I learned that that is how to remove bits on a PC 310, I haven't seen it as a problem.

But I've never had a nut crack on me. That would be a frustrating moment, for sure.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

When you don't have a self-releasing collet, the BEST fix bar-none is to apply some graphite powder on the collet. You don't want to apply graphite on the inside of the collet where it bears against the bit but rather on the outside of the collet. Apply once a year or so and you will never have problems with the bit sticking.

And you don't need much, just sprinkle a little graphite on your fingers and then rub the collet.

--
Simon Fay

Simon, that's good to know. Thanks!

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/