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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 1:21 pm 
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Koa
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Great post Waddy had on his V-neck joint, I happen to be doing the exact same thing right now.

I’ve always thought the appearance of the neck to head v- joint is beautiful joinery and a distinctive mark of craftsmanship. My first five guitars were scarf joints, so I decided to up the skill level on my next two with the addition of a v-joint. I used two resources: Joshua French’s tutorial in the OLF archive ‘V-joint Tutorial Revisted’ (viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10511) and the Cyndy Burton article in American Luthier No. 63 Fall 2000 ‘Vjoint A la Geza’ outlining Geza Burghardt’s method.

I mostly followed Joshua’s tutorial, however there are some useful tool templates shown in the GAL article and a nice tip; dampening the end-grain slightly helps during fitting. With a sharp paring chisel the wet end-grain cuts-off neatly in a fine slurry.

I made two attempts, first with no back plate and the second with an Indian rosewood back-plate. It all went fast except the fitting process, which took a couple of hours. I ended up with a decent fit on my first attempt and a better fit on my second attempt. A few more and I think I could speed things up with better results.

Two things I didn’t anticipate, the expression of the V on the inside of the slots and ramp and the foreshortening of the V on the head by a little over 1 mm due to the 14 degree head angle I chose.

Attachment:
vjoint_1.jpg


Set-up and mark-up

Attachment:
olfVJnt1.jpg



Attachment:
olfVJnt2.jpg


Beveling and cutting

Attachment:
olfVJnt3.jpg


Attachment:
olfVJnt4.jpg


Cutting the head V

Attachment:
olfVJnt5.jpg


Fitting

Attachment:
olfVJnt6.jpg


Glue up

Attachment:
olfVJnt7.jpg


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 1:24 pm 
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Koa
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Attachment:
olfVJnt75.jpg


Expression of the V inside the ramp

Attachment:
olfVJnt8.jpg


I’m planning on using some antique Landsdorfer tuners on one of these necks


Attachment:
olfVJnt9.jpg


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 1:46 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I did three of those the other day; after a while you do get faster. I've never tried wetting the end grain. I just stop every once in the while to touch up the chisel. The trick, in any case, is what could be called the 'koan of lutherie': the slower you work the faster you get done. It's those tiny transparent shavings.....


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 1:57 pm 
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Koa
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Alan,

Three in one day! Wow, that's incredibly proficient, do you have templates like in the Geza in the GAL article? They look helpful. Geza claims he can do six a day in the article, whew.

I agree 100% with you on the continuous sharpening of the chisel during the work, you'll see in my first picture a granite slab with some 2500 grit taped to it.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:09 pm 
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What a great job, Marc. Why didn't I know about "I mostly followed Joshua’s tutorial, however there are some useful tool templates shown in the GAL article and a nice tip; dampening the end-grain slightly helps during fitting. With a sharp paring chisel the wet end-grain cuts-off neatly in a fine slurry." That's worth a lot, particularly to a beginner. I did it all dry, and it took me a whole day to do what I did. Three in one day, WOW! [clap] [clap] Maybe some day! I did it three times, though, does that count? :D

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Koa
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Thanks Waddy, The first one I did was painfully slow, the second was much more bearable. Even still, I could have cranked out 5 or 6 scarf joints in the same amount of time.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:23 pm 
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It looks great, Marc!

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 2:52 pm 
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I know about painfully slow. The one I trashed took me two full days in the shop to tweak to a fit. I'm talking weekend days - real full days, not two hours in the evening.

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 3:42 pm 
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Koa
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Thanks Arnt,

Waddy, I know what you mean, the whole time I was doing the first one I kept asking myself, who thought of a joint that comes to a point.

If you want more of a challenge read the section titled "Head" of David Schramms research on Hauser, http://www.hauserguitars.com/hauser_contribute/beitrag_wildner_002.htm . Apparently Hauser's V-Joint doesn't go all the way through the head, like a blind dovetail. Also the V doesn't have straight sides, they are tapered so they lock in place. According to the article this was one of Hauser's last steps in construction, now that's confidence.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 4:04 pm 
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I think I saw a similar joint on a guitar that Gary Demos was building over on LuthierForum. It was a Louis Panormo Copy.Image

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 9:14 pm 
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No doubt the V joint is more labor intensive than the scarf joint.
It is however aesthetically much more pleasing, as well as being a more efficient use of wood than a bandsawn neck. Probably stronger than either as well though on a classical guitar, this is not a major concern.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 4:48 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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What Martin used before 1915, and what I believe Hauser used, was a modified bridle joint. I saw examples of this at Julius Borges' shop. It's actually a fairly simple thing to do with a good table saw, and not as tricky to fit as the through V-joint, at least the way Martin dd it. Unfortunately, it's hard to describe, and does not come through well even in drawings. There is a picture of one on frets.com, as Frank fixes an old Martin headstock.

One thing I really like about the through V-joint is that, when glued with HHG, a sudden knock will simply break the glue line, rather than the wood. It's a simple fix: wash off the old glue and re-glue it. That can't be said for the bridle joint, nor for Taylor's finger joint.


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