Official Luthiers Forum!

Ok, I found an old #6 stanley I had, so Ill try that out for shooting board. So I will spend that burnin dough on a brace plane, and Im stuck with IBEX, so what do you prefer, the 10mm or the 12 MM? (Dred bracing)

This is not TAS, its a timesaver, and I need more time, and I'm pretty sloppy with the chisel...!!

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Here is what a Parlor Guitar is for!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEa8PkjO6_I

I use a 10 or a 12 mm and I can't remember which because they are still packed up from the move. But the other plane that I use just as much is an 18 mm.

So if you are only going to have one I would go for the 12 mm. Either the 10 or 12 will scallop fine but the 12 will be more efficient for carving the triangular profile removing material from the sides of the braces.

But you know many of like something because we have it - it's likely that I would like either a 10 or 12 mm just as much.

Hesh, you have the 12mm. I did a search on wednesday morning to see what people were using, and you mentioned your 12mm and 18mm. I then ordered a 10mm because it was the only one LMI carries, and I could get it asap without paying for expedited shipping. Should be here today!

My hope is that it will be easier to use than the Lie-Nielsen model maker's plane for triangulating. The edge of my model maker kept rubbing against the soundboard and rubbed little grooves into it.

i use the 10mm ibex and it works well for removing material from the side of braces. i might like a chisel better for this, but i havent decided yet . it does feel just a tad on the wee side, but were only talking .080 difference between the 10mm and the 12mm so im not sure how big of a deal it is either way.

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sweat the small stuff.

I have 10mm one an i love i wouldent use anything else for shaping braces.
its the bee's knee's.

i have a much larger one to that i dont use much but when i do i love it.

I also have a convex sole one that can be handy for hoging alot of wood the sides then i swtch to the flat true up and get out any lumps etc.

I dont think you will see much diference in the function if the diferent sized planes its just about how it feels in the hand i think.
and i have tiny girly hands a smaller one suits me fine.

Joel.

James buddy thanks for that. I hope that your finger plane arrived today.

These finger planes have enough of a rounded edge that they usually won't crease the wood but there is that risk with soft woods and based on where you are applying the pressure.

I typically glue on the back joint reinforcement prior to bracing the back. So when I am planing my back brace's side profile I have to pass the plane over the back joint reinforcement. I found that taping down some transparency film or any thin plastic beside the braces or over the BJR protects it from creases. I use the blue tape to hold in place.

Heath after a long session with my finger planes my fingers hurt because they are pretty small and difficult to hold for an extended time - at least for me.

The LN model makers plane is a great tool but too big for side profiles in that it won't work close to the X-intersection. I use mine mostly for height adjustments on my X-intersection and brace heights.

Ok, thanks, I went with a 12mm,(better all around for the back braces also) but I have a 10MM blade around here somewhere. How is it that when you move you loose the stuff you really want to hold on to??

Hesh, it sounds like you need a finger plane holder! How about something that slips over the back of the blade? A wood extender handle?

Its nice having a job again to pay for all this.....stuff....

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Here is what a Parlor Guitar is for!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEa8PkjO6_I

Rich, I have an Ibex 12 mm as well as http://www.dov-music.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1100 Right now I'm favoring the non-Ibex one. It has a longer blade, making it easier for me to hold and a bit more heft. It just feels better in my hand. And just for reference, I wear a men's medium in gloves, so my hands are exactly tiny.

I'm starting to look really hard at http://www.dov-music.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1100 These little planes can be addicting.


By the way, the wood arrived and looks great. Thanks.

Since I'm having problems with the links, here are the pictures.

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Aoibeann

Thanks, Hesh. It did. It's too small. And convex.

if you want to spend some cash this is the most expensive thumb plane i have seen but it sure looks pretty.

http://richardkell.co.uk/luthiersPlane.html

i have one of his honing guides and i love it you can even sharpen your thumb plane blades in it.

Joel.

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Someone should do some kits so you just have to glue up. I tried making a small plane a couple times, didnt work to well, so I ordered. I think using a chisel for the rough work then a small plane to finish is the way to go.

Maybe next time Ill follow the plan exactly.

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Here is what a Parlor Guitar is for!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEa8PkjO6_I

I have a 10 mm and find it too small to hold on to, plus I bought the curved one by mistake! I'm ordering a 12 mm flat soled one tomorrow from Stewmac....

Anyone ever heard of grinding the sole of a convex plan and replacing the blade to make it flat? The replacement blade is only $14.....

Laurie

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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.