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Greetings,
I've used Tru-Oil on several necks. Prep with a 600G sanding, Z Poxy pore fill, polish to about 600 grit again and apply Tru oil. 10-12 thin coats, 10 day cure, polish with micromesh. I've noticed a little fuzzyness in spots after playing a lot for several weeks. Almost like raised grain. Can polish out but comes back. Is this common? Solution?
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Terry...I'm seeing the same thing...kinda reminiscent of what I was seeing with FP necks. I just quickly sand it down with a few swipes of 800 grit and it's smooth again for the next few months. I might try re-applying additional oil to see if there's a point at which it will no longer roughen.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Interesting. That has never happened to me. I only prep sand to 220 before epoxy pore fill, then 220 or 320 after epoxy. I rub the tru-oil out with steel wool.

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

How many coats do you apply Mike? How long a cure before rub out?

Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Like you, I probably apply 10-12 coats in all. I have recoated in as little as two hours in the hotter months. Anyway, I lightly buff with 0000 between coats. I try to wait a week after the final coat, but I've rubbed it out after a couple days too. I've also found that the older the tru-oil, the longer it takes to cure. I needs me some bloxygen!

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

Thanks Mike
Terry

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

On necks that I have filled with Z-Poxy ,I`ve had the same problem with different finishes.Eventually they start to feel like the grain is raising and they need some buffing with steel wool.On the last neck I did I filled it with Tru-oil sealer before applying several coats of Tru-oil. This is the only way I will finish a neck from now on.This neck gets some serious playing time ,and it`s still slick and smooth.No more Z-poxy on necks for me.
James W B

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

I'm doing my 6th tru-oil neck right now and I haven't had that problem. What I do is sand to 800, apply the first two coats using 0000 wool as the applicator which does the filling. When that is good and dry I rub back lightly with 0000 the apply all subsequent layers with a t-shirt. After two or three thin coats I hit it with 0000 again until I get the level of gloss I like then I let it sit for a week, if I have the patience. Then I rub out with medium, then fine cmpd., wipe on a coat of lemon oil and it's ready to play.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

Very timely neck finish topic, thanks for the input guys.

I am looking at true-oil for a QLD Maple neck, the wood is a very pale pinkish white, I would like it darker. I am wondering if maybe sealing with shellac, an amber stain, another coat of shellac to seal the stain and then tru-oil to finish would work any thoughts?

Also, if shellac is OK to use under tru-oil, I am wondering if this maybe could resolve the fuzziness problem that some of you are experiencing?

Sorry to ask more than I can answer but finish is certainly not my forte in woodwork

Cheers

Kim

I'm not experienced in Tru-Oil, but I have read many posts where shellac was used as a base coat, as well as pore filling with shellac and pumice before applying the Tru-Oil. You might get enough color with a brown shellac or a garnet shellac as a base coat.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I've used Tru oil over shellac and zpoxy and haven't had any problems. I apply a couple of coats per day with a t-shirt (4 coats total) and then smooth with 0000 steel wool. Another couple of coats followed by steel wool if necessary. Let cure for a week or so and buff out with med and fine manzerna. i don't see much of an improvement with extra fine. I'll have to try the lemon oil tip on my necks.

By the way I just finished making a vanity for my bathroom and used Tru oil as my top coat.

Couple of comments here. May be pertinent and maybe not. I am one of those that have very highly acidity in my sweat and I have a few clients the same way. They claim they could not use FP or tru-oil finish on their necks because their perspiration softened the finish. After changing out several neck finishes for them I begain asking the question if they wiped down after every session. not one said they ever wiped down. So I talked one of them into keeping tru-oil as his finish and make a habit of wiping down after every session. That has been two years ago and he is having no issue at all. So if you are one of these that have a high acid perspiration let me suggest to get in the habit of wiping down with a moist but not wet lint free cloth after near every session and this problem goes away. It is the sweat slowly softening the tru-oil that most often causes this issue. Wiping down after a session removes the sweat before it can soften the finish. Same issue as with gun bluing. only about 10% of the guitar playing public has this problem

The other is there is no issue at all with tru-oil over shellac or Zpoxy

I have acidic sweat, and I have had major problems with nitro on necks. I don't have any problem at all with shellac (FP) on necks. Just a tangential comment.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/