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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:42 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I'm in the process of making a walnut bridge for my Weissenborn Style guitar. I would like to know If It is common to pore fill and finish (true oil) a walnut bridge, or any open pored bridge wood for that matter?

Also, what is the standard size drill bit for drilling bridge pin holes?

Thanks to all for answering these questions.

Ron M.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:53 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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first question it is not uncommon to fill and finish a bridge but not neeaded in most caes. I hust lemon oil allwow to soak in and dry out a few days and polish out on the buffer.

On pins most pins have a small end diameteer of around .17" 4.3mm. I drill out at .1875"4.76mm and ream to proper fit. This may vary from pin maker to pin maker so check the diameter about 1/8" up from the bottom of the pin and use tht as your drill hole size. This will leave room for reaming


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:37 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hi Michael,
Thank you for answering the questions for me.

Ron


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:05 am 
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Cocobolo
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ToddStock wrote:
You might also do a polish on the walnut and see how it shines up. A buffed, unfinished bridge can look great.


That seems simple enough. Thanks Todd.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:53 pm 
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Cocobolo
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A have another question:
Should the bridge pins holes be drilled before ramping the bridge or after?

Thanks,
Ron M.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:24 pm 
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Mahogany
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I do it before to make it easier to mark and drill your holes with accuracy. As well as to keep your bit from skating off center.. But that's only with the way I carve my bridge. There may be cases depending on your bridge shape where it could make sense to do it after?!?

Cheers,
Chad


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:28 pm 
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ToddStock wrote:
My Weissenborn pins are 90 degrees to the slope of the bridge surface - in other words, they tilt back about 15 degrees. I pre-drill the pin holes prior to final shaping, but after putting the ramp on the bridge...I bevel the pin holes after the bridge is in place. FWIW, I don't drill all the way through - just deep enough to allow the holes to be easily opened once the bridge is in place, but not deep enough to open prior to the bridge getting glued in place (thus avoiding a bunch of hide glue squeezeout).


I never thought about glue squeeze out being an issue. Thanks Todd for the heads up.

You wrote "...I bevel the pin holes after the bridge is in place."

Are you referring to countersinking the bridge pin holes?

lots of good info Todd, thank you.

Ron M.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:22 am 
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Thanks for the lesson Todd.

Ron M.


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