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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:20 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hey guys

Just wondering: are any of you using a brad point bit to drill tuner holes? I am just curious to know if that will do a good job with my recently acquired Classical Slot Head Cutting Fixture from Luthier Tools. My current wood bit is getting dull and I thought maybe a brad point bit would do a cleaner job. Eat Drink

Cheers,

Pat


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:36 pm 
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Location: United States
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I just use a nice sharp metal cutting bit. Works fine, but I don't see why a brad point wouldn't work too. If you are doing it before cutting the slots as preferred, you shouldn't have tear-out problems anyway.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:58 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Yes I drill my tuner holes with a 10mm brad point Just be sure to have a sacrificial backing under the peghead and all will work just fine.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:15 pm 
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He's drilling a classical slot-head Michael.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:19 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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oops_sign I read it and still ignored it idunno


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:29 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use a 13/32 " brad point from the German maker Colt!!!!

It's the sharpest bit I've ever used!

www.woodcraft.com is where I got mine!

mike

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 4:45 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Yep, I always use Colt brad-point bits as well, the only drills I'll use with wood, accept nothing less.

Colin

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Use brad point for classical tuner holes if at all possible; they cut cleaner and leave a more nearly flat bottom. But not all brad points are alike--look for a "lip and spur" style. Fuller makes an excellent bit. The Lee Valley lip and spur bits (that they regrind from a less expensive Chinese bit) are not quite as good, but they do the job well enough.

Remember to drill from the sides of the headstock before you cut the slots. Don't ask me how I know this.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:18 pm 
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Walnut
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The German made Colt bits are the best I have ever encountered.


Kent

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:56 am 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks guys, brad point it is going to be!

I have been looking on the internet for the Colt 13/32 inch bit, but I just can't find it. 10mm is offered but my slot head fixture is 13/32, which is 10,4mm. And yes, a 0.4mm difference can lead to misalignment of the tuner rollers in my clumsy hands... [headinwall]

Unless I find the Colt 13/32, I am going to get the Lee Valley one.

Cheers,

Pat


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:52 pm 
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Koa
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A couple of people here recently recommended these Lee Valley bits to me and they turned out to be excellent.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... ,180,42240

They have a 10mm.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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10mm will NOT work for classical tuners!
you need the extra wiggle room of the 13/32"

Mike

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:11 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Even with a brad point bit you can get tearing if you do not clear out the chips a couple of times for each hole.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:00 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Argyle New York
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Focus: Build
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How fast (pressure) you drill will affect the outcome also!
Go slow-what's the hurry!
The Colt bit does NOT tear !
it's a premo piece!
bliss

Mike

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 5:24 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Going too slow generates extra heat and wear on the bit. When you are getting a long curly shaving coming out of the hole you have the feed speed right, and there's no advantage to slowing down.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:01 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Any owners of German Colt bits tried Fuller bits? How do Fuller bit compare ?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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First name: Mike
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My harp guitar requires a slotted head. What is the procedure (& jig) used to do this?

Mike


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