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Chris my friend these are excellent!!!!

I just put a link in Scotty's thread to your thread here so you can show him how to be successful cutting the binding channels.

Excellent toot!!!!

Thanks Hesh.

Chris,
Great videos and thanks for sharing. I sometimes get a slight indention on the sides from the bearing that I have to sand out later. Am I just being too heavy handed or is there a way to prevent this?

Chuck

_________________
"To live a creative life, we must lose our fear of being wrong"
- Joseph Chilton Pearce

If I had to guess which is what I'm doing then I 'd say first check to see if your bearing isn't sticking. Then I'd guess maybe you are. Are you using the bottom bearings connected to the bit?(LMI / StewMac) You might try the tape around the rim so that the bearing rides along it to see if that helps too. Like I said I just built this machine and the video is the second and third time I used it. I did my others with a dremal and StewMac attachments. I actually would have bought the LMI bearing set if I had the cash for the full set. They're on my wish list. Or I might go the dedicated routers route.

Chris,
I'm using the StewMac bit set in a similar binding machine - the StewMac "Tru-Channel Jig". I'm certain that the bearing isn't sticking and I check it often. My first guitar has some nice little divots all around the sides due to a stuck bearing so I learned that lesson the hard way. Maybe I'm just pushing against the bit too hard. They seem to only happen at the shoulders of the upper bout where I'm trying extra hard to keep the cut square to the router as you point out in the video. I tend to go extra slow in those areas, too.

Thanks for your help!

Chuck

_________________
"To live a creative life, we must lose our fear of being wrong"
- Joseph Chilton Pearce

Chuck, The beauty of the bottom bearing attached to the bit is that you don't have to be concerned with the work being at the tangent point as with the edge guide style bearing that I'm using. Yeah, you only need enough side pressure to keep the bearing riding on the side.

Chris brings up somthing here that is a good note for all newbies to write down aand remember.

If you use an adjustable type guide bearing, one that you adjust the position of the guide bearing to set the width of the cut (as apposed to interchangeable bearings of varying diameter attached to the bit) there is only on place that the bit and guide bearing are both tangent to the side at the width of cut you want. If the adjustable guide bearing is smaller in diameter than the bit, as you rotate off this common tangent you will cut wider than you want. If the adjustable guide bearing is larger than the bit, as you get off the common tangent you will cut narower than you want. The max possible error is in relationship to 1/2 the difference in diameter of the bit to adjustable guide bearing.

I use the Luthier tool double bearing adjustable bearing binding jig with a 1/4" diameter bit and the bearings are roughly 5/8" diameter. So the error if I get out of common tangent to the cut is on the narrow side and I can go back over to correct it. However if your adjustable guide bearings are smaller in diameter than your bit the error would be on the wide side and depending on the difference in diameter it can be catastrophic. So if you are using an adjustable guide bearing that is smaller than your bit diameter be sure you keep the router in plane to the cut so that both the bearing and the bit share the same tangent at the with of cut you want.

Michael,
Thanks for that info.

I had some request for some pictures of my edge bearing to show how it's put together show I'll post them here too.
The 3/4" X 1" block of polycarbonate was made from 1/4" strips laminated together with CA.

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