Official Luthiers Forum!

Anyone know what this is typically put on with? I suspect it has to be easily removed without ruining it?

Does it actually notch into the holes for the bolts or just stuck on there with something that releases easily?



Note: Pic is not my instrument, image stolen from google.

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

Last one I had like that was held with double sided tape, and wasn't too difficult to remove in one piece (had to tighten a neck bolt)

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Yep, those serial number plates are held on with double sided tape - you know the sort with the thin foam core. You can get a thin blade in behind it, or drip something like naptha down to loosen the tape and then pry it off.

Thanks to you both. I picked up a branding iron with my logo in order to make plates that cover up the hardware in the neck block.

I’m using hanger bolts with cap nuts (thanks to Rod True for the recommendation of the cap nuts!!). I picked up a nice reverse counterbore from McMaster Carr and it makes easy work to countersink the cap nut. I used double stick tape for the plate. Worked fine and I was able to easily remove on a test plate.

A small detail but it does look nice through the soundhole.











Brad



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

Nice, neat, professional touch.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Looks good!

That does look good. Nicely done Brad.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Very elegant, Brad. I'm curious: Could you also use rare earth magnets glued to the cover plate, right at the bolt holes? They could grab onto the cap nuts.

Hey Brad,
You just raised the bar! Now we are all going to have to do it !

It looks real nice, kudos!

I agree that looks cool but... Why? I remember back in the 90's the explosive discussions of Taylor bolt on versus the traditional dove tail and I figured Taylor covered the bolts because they thought it would look bad or something. It just makes it harder to reset the neck or tighten the bolts. So is there another reason I am missing for doing this type of thing other then cosmetics?

100% cosmetic.

I played a luthier built guitar at Emerald City guitars about a year and a half ago (can't recall the name, the logo was a dolphin) and there was logo like that on the block and it looked nice through the side sound port.

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

This is a great idea, I will try that. Would make removal a snap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

_________________
Insta - https://www.instagram.com/cbcguitars/
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/cbcguitars

Glad you like the magnet idea! I have actually thought about doing it this way, if I go back to bolted necks.

I figure the best way to do the magnet thing is to drill very shallow pockets for the magnets in the cover plate. I've had some situations where the glue didn't hold my magnets as well as I wanted if I just glued them to the flat surface, but if I drilled little pockets for the magnets with a Forstner bit, they held on really well.

Of course, I also use pockets for the magnets that have them fully inset (flush with the surface) for things like vise jaw inserts. But I think you should want the magnets sticking out a bit, into the bolt hole.

I think another reason for making it less accessible is to keep the end user from fiddling with the bolts. Also if you do a less than perfect job of centering the bolts in the block it hides that well.

I have used magnets to set the truss rod cover over the truss rod adjusting socket (@ headstock, Gibson style). It looks neater to not have any screws there.