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So I had a brief go at the orbital buffer, but it turned out not to be the right animal for me. I have a big stationary buffer and I think I get similar results with that. I just had to see if there was a difference though. Thank you Amazon for letting me try it. I have three 3" orange foam buffing pads that I bought from Griot's Garage through Amazon. Can't return them because I opened the package and slightly used one with 3M Perfect It polish to check out the buffer. I hate throwing away things that some one can use. So, if you are using pads like these, and could use some extras, contact me and I'll send them your way. Mail will be super cheap and I dont mind paying it to see them find a useful home. If you are just looking for something free, and don't actual have the gear to use these, please don't ask for them. Happy buffing! Thanks, Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

I don't have the gear, but it's nice to see members offering unused items like this.
Hope someone gets the use of these.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Bob, I also just picked up the handheld polisher and those same pads. I would be happy to take them off your hands. I’ll send you a PM.

Sorry it didn’t work out for you. I’m just getting started with it but I think it will be perfect for my ukes.

Brad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Me, too! I'm still waiting for my polisher to arrive.

Bob, what was the main issue with using the polishing pads? I'm sure many of us bought polishers because of that thread where Barry espoused their usage and you had mentioned the weight. Was that the main issue?

Thanks,
Charlton

Brad- Got your e-mail and address. I'll mail the pads tomorrow. Sorry Carleton.
Tools are often just an issue of what you are used to. No one has ever complained about my finishes, except me. At 74, I decided that I really wanted to take at last 1 more run at seriously improving my nitro before I die. I've always wondered about hand held buffers, so after the buffing thread just thought I'd give it a go. I'm certain that good results can be obtained with the Adam's buffer, but I found it just too physically difficult to use compared to my stationary buffer. A bit messy too. Lucky we have Amazon Prime for stuff like this. I was very careful to keep it pristine in case of a return issue, which happened.
While waiting for the Adam's to arrive, I also spent some time looking closer at car finisher's videos. I've taken a couple of minor attempts at power sanding nitro, but never took it seriously. Well, turns out power sanding with with hook and loop sanding film discs is pretty good stuff for me. I stress "for me", because so much technique and results seem to depend on the user, their processes, and equipment. Just like the Adam's polisher which works great for Barry and others, but not for me. I have not defined the process yet, as to which grits I need to use and which I can skip, but the power wet sanding with an orbital goes very fast. I used almost all the grits I had to start with , 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, and 5000. I did not go to the 7000 or 10000 yet. Just did not seem to need it, but will try it again. After the sanding, I went to the buffer with medium and fine stick compounds. This, after hand sanding with wet and dry to 1200. i did my first instrument with the sanding film discs yesterday. For me, the results were brilliant. Still not perfect, but a fair amount better than I've ever done before.Enjoy your projects, Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

Hey Bob, would you tell me more about the hook and loop sanding films? Where to get them, the brand, are you using air orbital or electric? I tried orbital paper a long time ago, but the super fine paper got clogged up immediately. I’m using a better nitro now and would like to try again, but would like to avoid figuring it out by experimenting.

For those who haven't tried them I would recommend trying the micron graded film backed abrasives and the trizact products for sanding finishes. I have found them to be require less time and effort to produce a uniform surface which allows you to go from one grade to the next. As they say, YMMV, and what works for me may not for you, but if you can find a few sheets to try without getting too heavily invested you might be pleasantly surprised.

Glen- I don't know if the quality of your nitro interacts with how the sanding film works. The lacquer I use is not very good (Sherwin Williams), but we are extremely limited as to what they will ship to the island without huge Hasmat charges. I just have to use what I can get here.

The rougher grits, from 600 to 2000, came from Red Label Industrial Abrasives. They are called Orange Automotive Sanding film discs. Mine are 5" hook and loop. The fine grits, from 3000 tp 10000, came from eBay. There is a guy on eBay known as Shyn Abrasives that sells a variety pack with those grits. I have not looked , but the rougher grits are probably available on eBay too.

I've never sanded with anything but Dynabrade orbital air sanders. Unfortunately you need a larger compresser to run them. I have not tried those Festool sanders that everyone raves about, but air is a dream to work with., and I really like the ergonomics of 5" Dynabrades. As I said in my post, I did the innitial sanding by hand with wet and dry paper and soap and water, up to 1200. Maybe I could have started with the orbital sooner. I have to figure that out with some experience. Then I switched to power sanding using a spray bottle to mist on soap and water as necessary until I got to 5000. Did not go further. I then switched to the stationary buffer and the grease sticks. The sanding film did not clog at all. Now having said all that, if you are not finishing your body and neck separately, your orbital sanding will be limited. I still think it would be worth doing on the top and back, but it would be difficult to work around the neck joint and fretboard extension. I cheat a bit, by spraying the body and neck separately until they are complete, then sand them until they are ready to buff, and then spray a couple of light limited coats amount the neck joint and extension after joining. If I did bolt ons, I don't think I would need the extra coats.

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

Thanks Bob. I do the body and neck separately. I have long wanted the dynabrades but not near enough compressor or even more limiting, room for a good compressor. I’m going to give films another try.

So, Bob, was it the ergonomics and messiness that bothered you? The strain of using it? I just bought one too. I don't like power sanding a finish as I find it too aggressive on the edges. I'll do a small amount of it to knock the nibs off and take out the orange peel. But then, I do it by hand. Mohawk nitro. I also stopped using mineral spirits. I now use water and a bit of dish soap. Brian Howard warned that that was what caused finish dust to embed in small crevices.

Mike- Yes, it was mostly the size, weight, and shape of the Adams' that just was not comfotable for me. It's just a personal preference and I'm certainly biased by having used low profile Dynabrades for so long. With air, you do have to deal wih the hose and having a big enough compressor. I love the new cordless tools, especially the routers and skill saws. I wish someone would invent a hoseless air sander!!

Like you mentioned, it is necessary to stay away from too much sanding on the edges, but that is also true of hand sanding. The wet sanding films are remarkably comfortable to work with. I do the rounded neck and heel by hand though.-Bob

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

Mine showed up. I think I see the issue. It is not exactly low weight, is it!?

And how do you hold a guitar down while using it? It is essentially an angle grinder body with a right angle converter.

I think I prefer my wheel buffer, but I'm going to keep an open mind for a while. I'm not good at holding the body still while using the Adams, so I will need to put some sort of holder together if I stick with it.

Maybe the holder (many of us use) for the binding cutter? (tops and bottoms). I could use my large bench clamp for the sides (and some soft towels). I am also concerned it could be too aggressive. Maybe Brad will comment soon.

I just put a few towels on the workbench and lay the guitar on it. I have no movement but I steady the guitar with one hand. This is really a non-issue.

Barry, do think there is the potential for this device to be overly aggressive?

Is the Adams machine variable speed? I have been using the older Porter Cable machines (before DeWalt bought them and brought out a bulky new model and painted it grey) and can use them one handed. I haven't bought any foam pads and don't even know if they are available, but with the synthetic wool bonnet they work O.K. I will say they are not particularly light weight, especially compared to a dynabrade air sander. Being able to vary the speed I find to be helpful.

Clay, yes, it is variable speed.

Mike, it is an aggressive machine. Is that a problem?

I am beginning the think that I should withdraw my recommendation here for this tool.

Aww, don't do that. I love mine that I got as a result of your posts. It's not light weight, but it's balanced well and works as it should. I'm an old guy of slight build and without a lot of upper body strength left and I have no problems running it either one or two handed. All depends on what you're used to.

Also in its favor--it's small and won't grab things and throw them across the room. I guess those robots they're using to polish guitars at Martin and other factories is probably the way to go

Dave

I don't see any reason to withdraw your recommendation. It works for you. It might not be something that other folks favor. Nothing wrong with that.

The smaller diameter of the Adams machine and the foam buffing pads seem like they would be an improvement over the Porter Cable sanders I have been using with some success. Most of the right angle random orbital sander/polishers I have used (PC, Bosch, Festool, DeWalt) have some weight. They are designed to be more powerful than palm sanders and require larger motors. The biggest drawback I have found with the PCs is the larger 5 inch disc doesn't work all that well on the sides. That is why the Adams machine seems attractive - a smaller disc to work in corners better. Most tools have a learning curve. From the stories I've heard about buffing wheels I think the sanders' "curve" is not as bad. But once you become familiar with one tool, relearning on another tool to do the same job may seem an unnecessary bother. For those who haven't invested in buffing wheels and compounds (time and money) I think the Adams machine may (with a little effort required) be a relatively cheap and painless way to a fine finish.

Barry- No need to withdraw your recommendation. Sorry if I caused a ruckus. It just was not right for me, but I'm sure it will work for others.I'm just particular and used to what I'm used to. I don't eat beets, but a lot of folks love em! Just different strokes.

On another note Barry, your post led me to do more research and I ended up trying another random orbit buffer. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07 ... UTF8&psc=1 I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS PRODUCT BECAUSE I HAVE ONLY USED IT ON ONE INSTUMENT. I shipped that instrument to new York today.It will beanother 4 weeks before the next finish is ready to try it on. Typically,it will not work for anyone but me! What I can say is that all the negative reviews on Amazon are mostly true. I can see the issues they mentioned. A little common sense though deals with most of the problems. Like so many import tools, it is actually a kit that can be a tool if you work on it a bit. That said, I absolutely love this little beast. Very cheap. I'm going to order a second one and have already decided that if I have to add a new buffer allowance to each instrument order, I'll do it. As I have mentioned, even though I finish my neck and body separately, I spray a couple of coats around the neck body joint after joining the dovetail. This little buffer did exactly what I wanted it to do to clean up that joint. It will take some creativity to hand make foam velcro pads, but I can do that. Probably just cut down automotive ones.You have to be nice to it to get it to start up at times too. On the speed that one would use it at on instruments, it uses very little air. Good air control valve on it. Your neighbors will hate you if you use it wide open.

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“ The meaning of life is to find your gift and the purpose of life is to give it away” Pablo Picasso

Perhaps I'm missing something with this machine but I use gravity to hold the body down when using the PC. I don't bear down like the thing is an angle grinder, I treat it like the sander and buffer that it is. Like Barry I just place the guitar body on a soft pad and sand and buff the finish with the same pressure I would use to sand the wood. You can vary the speed, slow it down until you are used to handling the machine. You may like it or you may not, compared to what you already know and use.
How do the buffing pads attach to the sander? Are they velcro or hook and loop backed? I'm wondering if they could be adapted to the PC sanders I'm using now.

I should say why holding the guitar body was the one thing that gave me pause when I tested out this otherwise awesome buffer: because, in my shop on my bench, it felt like I did not have the body under control. There is an easy solution to that concern; I will build some sort of holder that will both cushion the guitar (leaving no marks) and hold it firmly. Then I will feel good about using this buffer. If you can feel under control without doing that, like by holding the guitar with one hand while holding the buffer with the other hand, that’s great. I just didn’t feel that way. I understand that Barry feels this is not an issue. I’m 100% on board with saying this was my issue, and not an issue generally. But it was, in fact, an issue I had. I will address my issue in the way I describe above, and then I will go back to using this very useful tool. I hope that clarifies what could be seen as a negative view of the tool. It really wasn’t intended that way. It was just sharing my one concern, along with my solution.

Bob, that is a pretty cool looking air tool. Before I got the Adams electric polisher I was using a Chicago air tool. It worked fairly well but wore out after a couple of years. But for the price it was a good value.