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Has anyone noticed the difference in binding tape from Stew Mac and LMII? I bought 6 rolls from Stew Mac, 60 yards, 3/4", $9.95. Could not use it. Too thin, not sticky enough. Kept slipping, and breaking. Bought 3 rolls from LMII, same specs, $6.56. Way stickier, no breakage. Actually looks like my favorite tape. Look at picture. LMII is much bigger due to thickness. Ugh.

I ran into that problem about five years ago. I had been using the LMI tape but ordered a couple rolls from StewMac as part of a larger order. I tried using the StewMac tape once and the rolls have been sitting in a drawer ever since. It was definitely not as good as the LMI tape.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

I started using the green 3M tape. I liked it because it’s just a little bit stretchy without breaking and I can get it next day from Amazon.


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I just returned it to Stew Mac. In a LMII box. Only box handy. Found 4 more used rolls of SM tape in a box. Can’t even unroll it as it’s glued to itself.

Brad…..
The 3M Green tape. Does it stick to unfinished wood surfaces well? Is it the 233 masking tape?
Thanks,
Tom

I’m out of town so can’t check in the shop to be sure, but I think it’s the 401 tape. It seems to work fine for me as far as sticking to unfinished wood. I generally have shellac on the top surface when binding but I’ve never noticed an issue with it sticking to the back / sides.

I like it because it has just a bit of give in it. I double up to strips for the waist area. It tends to only partially tear under pressure, presumably because of the stretch, unlike some of other tapes where they tear abruptly and can cause damage from a thumbnail digging into the top. Robbie O’Briens friend had that happen to him once.

Hope that helps.

Brad


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Pretty sure that 3M 233+ and 401+ are exactly the same. Perhaps made in different plants?

I’ve used all the regular suspects, but I confess my favourite remains fibreglass strapping tape, 1/2”. It has very little stretch, but you can put as much tension as you like … it’s not gonna break or tear. I use a tape dispenser rather than scissors or a knife.


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+1, although I find the new SM reasonably good.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

3M tape for me we sell it . it does a much better job

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Strapping tape for me. Adhesive is very agressive, so it requires a coat of shellac on soft tops. Warming with a heat gun during removal helps.

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

Hi Pat.
Is there a particular brand that you, and others use?
Tom

I’m pretty sure the last rolls I bought came from Amazon. Uline sells their own brand as well as 3M — both are available in different widths, different tensile strength and choices for easy removal. I don’t think there is any magic and no need to spend mega dollars.


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So, what I like about the LMII tape is its relatively inexpensive, unrolls easily, tears off roll easily, won’t easily pull off in shear, hard to break, and just enough stretch. Also, not gummy. Yes, I use a hair dryer to remove. Never worry about shellac.

Mike

I’ve used many different brands of strapping tape and most function well. I prefer the type with fibers running both directions as it doesn’t tend to leave wispy filaments behind when pulled off. This is for wooden bindings, for puny plastic binding any old tape will do the job

I agree on all points including "just enough stretch". The LMI tape has worked so well that I've never had any reason to try any others although there's no doubt other tapes work just fine too. (Except the StewMac tape I bought several years ago.)

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Agree. Stretch is important. Too much gives a false sense of security.

3M 897 filament tape in the 18mm x 55m (~3/4" x 60 yd) roll.

Strong, perfect degree of elasticity and cut resistance, the right degree of stick, and at $5.30/roll in a 12 pack, cheaper than other options. Other advantage is that the linear filaments make splitting the tape into narrower strips a matter of starting the slice with a razor blade or other knife-edge and reeling off the amount desired. We kept a roll of the green lacquer-resistant, high tack 3M tape and a roll of the 897 on an InLine (uLine/Shurline/other brands same thing) dispenser on the finishing bench, although these days, I would buy another StewMac triple-roll tape dispenser (best of the lot) and use the final tape bay for a roll of the low-tack 1" tape for pre-finish and pre-fret mask work (sides of fretboard get a strip to make pulling the mask easier).

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For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

3m Green tape is the way to go. Buy it at auto parts stores.

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Jason Moe
LaCrosse WI 54601

For me its filament tape, the last roll bought at Office Depot, 1 1/2" wide. I don't have those fancy dispensers so I stick 20 or 30 2" pieces on the workbench edge and split them in two or three strips. Easy to do with a razor knife, and you can customize widths. I've been doing the tape and CA tack binding method and find the extra pressure I can get with no tearing works for me.

I use 3M yellow tape (388N), which I get at my local auto paint supply store. It is about $1 cheaper per roll than 3M Scotch green, and works just the same, if not better.

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John

Since I have been using plastic bindings I have been using less tape. I use CA to apply them and go section by section holding the binding in place until the CA dries enough to hold the binding in place. It does require a modicum of patience, good music, and an appropriate beverage. It is a more hands on approach, but timewise, may be quicker than taping, wicking in between the tape with CA, removing the tape, wicking more Ca where the tape was. and cleaning up the mess it leaves behind.
For wood bindings I still use the cheap dollar store tape. If the bindings fit reasonably well it is strong enough and I have less worry about pulling wood fibers when removing it.
I still try to keep the price of building an instrument (materials and consumables) under $100 + the price of tuners, but it is getting harder to do these days.

Same here on my latest ukes where I used ABS. I used medium CA and went a bit at a time. Quite enjoyable actually.


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green tape from RC Tonewoods!

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Mike Collins