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I realize this could devolve into "I use this and that binding machine...". Please don't.

This is a PSA for this type machine. If your machine has a lot of use and you are noticing that it is not sliding in and out very well, It might be a very good time to replace the drawer slides. Took me 10 minutes to do this once I located some that were similar to what I had used.

Note that drawer slides were not designed for lateral loads. And lateral loads are experienced with this machine. I kept trying to figure out why my machine was getting harder to use. Until it was almost too late. Oil did not help. At the end of each slide (the big part of the slide) is a plastic cap. It has grooves to hold the slide in place. Mine had worn completely out. This meant that the slides could separate. And that is a bad thing. Started off as being difficult to pull, then got much worse until I noticed the router was not level.

So, Inspect your machines. If at all sticky, replace the slides.

Mike

If you have an idea for stronger slides, please post. I may try these:

https://www.aolisheng.com/products/lock ... 8389953716

mike

We used fairly heavy duty 12" commercial cabinet 'lazy Susan' bearings on ours... that should cancel most of the lateral load if the bearing is is free to rotate. Are you using a smaller circular race bearing that causes some side loads?

The Greenridge guys had built 8 of the Fleishman-Williams variant using Accuride 3832 24" slides, and I walked out with one of them (I had to finish the tower and arm assembly, so no such thing as free at Greenridge). Checking back with the guys, no problems reported on the extension bearings, but thanks for the heads-up on where to look for issues...I will do so. There is a medium duty version of the 3832 available (the 3932), but I had a hard time finding them just now.

_________________
For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

Woodie, never thought about that. Have a link?

you want work glides not drawer glides. They are not hard to find. Stainless bearings are the key.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Here is something similar to what we were using:

https://www.amazon.com/YaeMarine-Heavy- ... 083LVFY8S/

Not to gainsay Mr. Hall, but the full extension Accuride drawer guides seem to hold up pretty well.... 17+ years for the original units that have seen some fairly frequent use. For industrial use, I would agree that a linear bearing with CNC-type tolerances would be a better bet for long-term accuracy.

_________________
For the times they are a changin'

- Bob Dylan

Just thought I would mention that linear travel systems have become very affordable these days. So, if someone is looking to upgrade, those systems might be something to consider.

John, I looked at the slides you use on your machine. Mine were (and are) fairly identical. Its that plastic thing at the end that wore out. I'm guessing you thought I was using those simple drawer slides with plastic wheels. AOLISHENG has some very heavy glides with very little plastic meant for heavy loads (RV applications). The one rated for 150 pounds looks like a good dimensional fit.

https://www.aolisheng.com/products/ball ... 1411872948

Mike

there are 2 ends to those glides so what plastic thing you are referring to is a mystery...either way, trying to replace/work on either end's part isn't worth it except under "emergency" situations...bearings fall out and have to be put back in place, etc, etc, etc...

as far as stainless steel bearings...they aren't as good as high carbon steel in general application...luthier shops aren't outside and since they should be humidity controlled moisture is not an issue...I don't think anything corrosive is going to be used either, so high carbon chrome steel would be the way to go for longevity...the real key is super high quality bearings and the quality engineering/construction of the glides and that of course costs more than some junk knock off made in China

and one piece of advice about bearings...never, ever, use WD-40 on them..and in general never use WD-40 for anything

Its the plastic thing at the front end. The part you can see when assembled. Back end is a stop. To my knowledge, not replaceable. Have to admit my slides lasted 10 years...

if they lasted 10 years you got your money's worth...

and yeah, that front part is not something to be dealing with unless it's an emergency...like when they're on an assembly for cabinet doors that pivot and slide back into the cabinet and the hinges are falling and the only way (short of ripping the whole cabinet out of the wall) to deal with it is to take off the front piece of plastic then slide the thing out (which results in bearings falling out), tighten the screws holding the hinges on, slide back in place and replace the bearings 2 at a time (top and bottom or left and right if you prefer) and get it working again...as a note this process was caused by idiotic manufacturing of the cabinet (bass ackwards) and idiotic install (screws stripped out resulting in hinges falling off which results in doors falling off)

anyway, as hinted, just replace worn parts and be thankful they lasted that long

Mike_p,

As stated in the OP, this was a PSA for owners of this design. Read it again. I feel like you are trying school me in the finer points of whatever it is u are a pro in. Not necessary. It’s this simple. Replace your slides if you notice they are sticky.


Thanks, mike

you are correct, somewhere in the middle of this thread I forgot the wording of your OP...my apologies

No problem Mike, time for this thread to fade away.