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Most probably don't even use pegs. Violinmakers use pegs, but the vast majority don't make them. I'm an oddball.

These are for a 7 course/13 string Vihuela, and a small Torres.

I cut them out to fit a fixture I made. 1/2" by 1" slot. I don't know why I made it that long; I cut the blanks 1/2" by 3/4" I used 3/4" stock for these, but 1/2" stock works too, and then it should already fit the slot.

I cut the shaft straight at first, and turn the stop/decoration thing in (I don't know what they call it!) I move the blank in the slot so it is true by eye.



Then I pull the fixture out, and turn the knob? end. I do these cuts with the handles turn the x handle a couple times faster than the z handle), and then cut the little 4mm ball, and smooth the radius out with chisels, and a needle file. I don't use a tool rest. Just don't do stupid. Have your tool on the bottom, behind center, and move toward you to cut.



Then I put the fixture back in, and cut the taper on. I use the compound, and never change it. I don't have a real peg shaper, and this makes it easy.




I mart the side that I put facing the red dot of my fixture, just so they might line up better. The ones with the flat backs were easy. The heart shaped ones fit in the hole I have in the back of the fixture, and it must be off some. I'll have to look into it. These are all the pegs, plus one of the slightly smaller ones that were on the Strad in G, but will move to the 8 string uke. (Voboam that never was; in A) And the ferrule (that's what it's called?) that broke to piece in my hand. If you want fancy ferrules, turn them as rings first. Turn each peg so they just fit and glue them on. Turn the fancy stuff when the shaft is in the chuck. I mark the 2 places where it goes in with my tool in the lathe, and then turn it by hand.



Then comes the mill work. If you have one. I don't. I use chisels, and knives.



If you do a heart one like these, you have to carve it out. The heart one could have been with a smaller undercut. You would think that the guy designing it would do one first, and then do the rest? They don't look terrible.



I don't have all of them milled yet. When I do I'll put them under the 5X mag, so I can see them, and make them pretty. Then I'll age them in spots with some acidic acid I made. It is a nice clear red color. Why I don't know; but it is cool looking.

I ran, and programmed lathes for 40 years. I'd be far more comfortable with a nice Leblond lathe than my little one. I've never used the feed on it. I would cut threads up to a shoulder day in and day out on a LeBlond. On a big OLD lathe I made backshafts, cranks, and ball end adjusting screws for punch presses. All by hand. With less than 5 years experience.

This is just fun stuff.

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Why be normal?

Looking good Ken.

As for taper what I do is take the peg reamer that I have and use it to taper out a hole in a block of wood such that it has a 'mouth' opening much like a plane does. Then I clamp a plane iron to that open slot and simply spin the peg in till it makes the tpaer. That way the pegs are tapered perfectly to the peg reamer.

https://www.instructables.com/Cookie-Ti ... eg-Shaver/

Yeah. I do the same thing!

But have you seen, and tried the real nice peg shapers? They are NOT inexpensive. I had to make a double one for my cello. I have two small handmade ones for violin pegs. but I made them too small. The plane blade isn't long enough to get the whole thing on a cello. The REAL peg shapers might take a while to really dial in; but then they are dialed in.

If I did another cello, I would still use my handmade peg shaper. But I wouldn't get to watch the paper thin ribbon of wood come off a real nice bought one. I get shavings, but they aren't pretty, and it is some effort. Yeah. The one side started to split from the pressure of the taper; not having the blade quite far enough out, so I glued it. I think that nice ones are brass. This has a long flat to clamp the blade to.

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Why be normal?

I have not used a 'real' peg shaper before. I just figured it was a good idea to match the peg to the reamer you have. I'm sure the real ones are accurate enough. But so far so good with the DIY one.

I had a rash of flamenco guitars with pegs come through last year and pulled the trigger on a “fancy” peg shaper … its performance was acceptable but a trifle underwhelming considering the sticker price


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Yeah, they always were expensive, and now they are crazy expensive.

Yesterday I decided to finish up the Walnut/Yellow Cedar violin, because it actually looks good! The pegs were turned. I milled the heads, cut the little heart shape in with a knife, and finished them off with some super glue. Walnut cuts WAY easier than the Osage Orange does!

I had forgotten WHY I made the slot 1" wide. Violin pegs are 1" wide or so. 1" X 1/2" stock for them. The 3/4" was for the baroque guitar pegs.

Now I need to make a walnut tailpiece, a saddle, a nut, fit a bridge and string it up.

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Why be normal?

I have one of those fancy expensive violin peg shavers. I tried to sell it for 50 less then new and got no takers. I'd be willing to trade it for something guitar related.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

I spent a while looking for the walnut stock for the tailpiece. I just had it yesterday! Well, a bench got cleaned off anyway. The piece was right where I put it: I have about 6 wooden boxes for build "kits" One is for what I'm working on now; the baroque guitars. But I'm still finishing the Less Paul, and the Walnut/Cedar violin. That's where it was. Right in the box.

To make a tailpiece. Cut the profile, and drill the holes for the strings. If using a tail gut, drill the holes for them too; while the block is still thick and square. Then carve it to the shape. I like to make mine so they balance horizontally right in the middle. Why? Because I can, and it seems right. Balance is good. I smooth it with scrapers, and sanded with the maroon and grey fake steel wool. I put a coat of CA on it, and now I'll finish it up. I'll drill small holes for the end of the slot, and saw to them. It will come out better that way.

It has to look good.

That was only 2 drops of thin CA on a tiny folded piece of paper towel. It looks like I dipped it in!

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Why be normal?