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Can anyone tell me how to easily add a purfling line (preference is WBW) to the edge of the binding which will be next to the guitar sides. I think it would be easier to glue to the binding and then shape to size before installing in channel but I’m open to any idea.

Note, not the purfling strip which I will add b/w binding and both top and back.

I have a large stock of plain ebony bindings I’d like to use and the Rocklite Ebano option seems to no longer be avail in the US w LMI closing.

Thanks. Jon

I found this OLF post after a little more diligent searching. But what Tim and Alan et al describe is with a larger piece and then cut to size, if I understand correctly.

I already have precut bindings I’d like to add the side strips to, which seems pretty cumbersome.

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/view ... 01&t=48930

This is what I do now. Definitely not a mass production technique but works great. I use Titebond 3 as it has a higher release temperature. Somebody on this helpful forum posted this a while back. https://youtu.be/qMIVJ0_4h1k?si=eNpTDOf784VWjdmm

I use off cuts from the sides for bindings. I cut them at .090, then glue the purflings to the bin dings using TB3 and a pile of binder clips, then clean up to .080 and bend with the sides…

I do what Ed does, it's quick and easy.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I used to do that too but found Eric's method easier and more consistent for me.

Are you planning to have miter joints in the side purfling at the end graft, or are you going to run the side purfling across the ends of the end graft?

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

A couple of spring clamp sets from HF (https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-cl ... 69374.html) and TB3 has worked for me. The pads on the clamps open up to wrap around the binding and purfling. Makes it easier to keep them aligned while drying.

Miters

I built a 33” Purfling to binding clamp from UHMW polyethylene. Titebond III, block plane to flush and bend on the fox bender. Load the glued binding, load the glued purfling, load the removable part of the clamp then clamp.

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

I have done something like what Karl does (above). I took two aluminum bars (probably 1/2" wide), placed the binding and purfling glued together and clamped them with several spring clamps down the length of the glue up. The rubber tips of the spring clamps need to be removed. Also the ends of the aluminum bars need to be clamped down flat so they don't fold on themselves. This is done before the binding is thicknessed so that any inconsistencies are sanded out.

I searched through my photos, but couldn't find a shot of this...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Since you plan miters and you said you are open to any idea, an alternative to gluing the side purfling to the binding is to install the side purfling separate from the binding. This approach makes getting clean miters easy to do at the end graft and at the cutaway if you have one. I learned this approach here on the OLF from John Giltzow who posted it maybe ten years ago. It's my go to method on my instruments.

If you are interested, I posted a short "how to" here starting about halfway down the page at post #18: http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10145&t=47888&start=25

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

The OP mentioned that Rocklight bindings don't seem to be available right now from any US supplier. See my post here concerning availability of Rocklight from a Canadian supplier:

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=56196