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I hope everyone had a good fathers day.

I'm trying to figure out how to bring my spruce top down a little (about 1mm). I don't want to attempt this with a plane due to lack of skill, and I don't have access to a thickness sander. Can I do this with a rubber sanding block and sandpaper?

Also, according to the MIMF Weissenborn Plans the top is thicknessed to 2.5mm-3mm
I'm shooting for 3mm unless someone tells me otherwise. Are these numbers good for a Spruce top?

As always,Thanks for your help.

Ron M.

The title was suppose to read "Hand Sanding".

Ron M.

Haven't done any soundboard sanding myself yet (waiting for my first wood order), but if i were to try something like that I'd probably go with a long sanding board.

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Frank

Hand held cabinet scrapers work pretty well for getting Spruce down evenly.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Sure, a wooden block or one of those rubber ones will work fine. I'd suggest 80 grit, anything coarser tends to loose bits of the abrasive which will get imbedded into the wood.
Use a soft (like one of those big carpenter ones) pencil to make a grid of light hache marks and then sand them off...this will keep the plate evenly thicknessed as you go.
Use a bench brush to sweep the dust away at regular intervals so you can see what you're doing.

Or find a cabinet shop in the phone book or from the Internet that is near you and ask them if you can rent time on a thickness sander. Depending on where you are located there may also be an OLFer near you who is happy to help.

I am thicknessing my first top without a thickness sander as well. I plan to use my hand plane to get in the ballpark, then combo hand sand and cabinet scraper to get to final. I have purchaed a couple of very cheap flawed tops, and have practiced on those first. I am about to start "the real top" any day now.

Glenn

Ron & Glenn;
I use a Low angle plane !
Sharpen well !
These planes will cause less tearout( (ripping of the wood)(if you do not make to heavy a cut)
then jack Planes .
Then follow with a sanding block as David has said -this will eliminate
any plane marks!
Go slow-measure allot!!!!
How do plan to measure your top thickness?

mike

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Mike Collins

Top thinning has always been the most important part of a new guitar build!
I approach it with much thought for the sound(tone).
And of course the strings(guage) used ;and the size of the box!
Depth-etc...!

The low angle works best for me!
i've tried all kinds of plane over the years!

Mike

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Mike Collins

I have a circa 1920's Stanley #5 that i just recently added hock blade and chip breaker. I sharpend the blade and the plane cuts through like butter . I have a gift card ($50) to Woodcraft. my birthday is today as well, plus woodcraft still has free shipping for Father's day ... I may just get the Festool ROS and do as Todd mentions.

I have a deep throat caliper that I use to measure thickness across the top.

Glenn

My first top I took down with a belt sander.Not really very difficult.I now use a thickness planer.Also a wagner planer works well for getting close.
James

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James W Bolan
Nashville Tennessee

Thats a good question mike. I may have to buy a digital caliper from Stew Mac.

Todd & Hesh
I'll see If I can get access to a thickness sander first. If not, then I'll take the low tech route.

Todd, what thickness would you bring a spruce top for a Weissenborn Style guitar down to? Thanks to everyone for your help.

Hi Todd,

What grit paper do you recommend working with the ROS?

Thx!

Glenn

80 grit to start, then 120, 150, 220 to finish.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

Thanks Todd.

Ron M.

I thickness top/back/sides with a #5 Stanley & sanding block.

When you guys say "low angle plane" exactly what kind of plane are you referring to, a smoothing plane like a stanley No. 4 or 4-1/2? Thanks.

Ron M.

No, the 4 and 4 1/2 are normal angle (45 degrees) planes. The bevel faces down. Low angle planes have the blade at a much lower angle (about 12 degrees) but the bevel faces up. Not sure why low angles were developed, but I imagine for two reasons: the "mechanics" are simpler, and they work better in end-grain? Other than that, you can use them without problems on face grain but with a less aggressive blade bevel.

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Build log

Hi Alex,
Thanks for your reply. Can you give me a Stanley plane example, by indicating a model number.

The only thing that I have that comes close is a Stanley 60-1/2 low angle block plane. Thanks.

Ron M.

I have a thickness sander. But a well-quartered spruce top is simply a joy to hand-plane to thickness, finishing off with a little ROS action to even things out. I do use the thickness sander to level the rosette, though, because it's just easier and more reliable.

Thanks Todd for taking the time to go into detail about low angle planes.

Call me crazy, but I used a Black and Decker Mouse sander for my first one. I got it close with a hand plane (a #5 Stanley), then the Mouse, then finished by hand....worked fine to me and less elbow grease that way....

Laurie

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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.

Call me crazy, but I used a Black and Decker Mouse sander for my first one. I got it close with a hand plane (a #5 Stanley), then the Mouse, then finished by hand....worked fine to me and less elbow grease that way....

Laurie

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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.

I don't think that's crazy, I think It's creative. I may buy a ROS and caliper and go at It. Thanks Laurie.

Anyone know of a cheap caliper alternative to the high priced ones that will give accurate measurements?

I'm having probs with a mahogany back and have had to result to a cabinet scraper and sander now

Cheers guys these tips'll help

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Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes