***** Guitar Project Jigs, Tools & Techniques Online Resources Archives OLF Video Page Library of plans MP3 Library Inlay Class
Offical Luthiers Forum





And our community proudly sponsored by:

RC Tonewoods | Stewart MacDonald | LuthiersForum
TasmanianTonewoods | OLF | OLF MERCH
Luthier Suppliers | Pacific Coast Woods | ELEVATE
OLF X | Tasmanian Acoustic Tonewood | Luthiers Forum Store!
Luthiers Forum | OLF Facebook | AVAIL SPACE
OLF | Alaska Specialty Woods | A.Hix Tonewood
Duke of Pearl | Birkonium CNC | Space




Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Sat Nov 30, 2024 11:50 am


Board index » Luthiers Forum Rooms » Guitar Building Forum

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  Page 1 of 1
  [ 11 posts ] 
  Print view Previous topic | Next topic 
Author Message
Ron M.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:42 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
I'm in the process of making a walnut bridge for my Weissenborn Style guitar. I would like to know If It is common to pore fill and finish (true oil) a walnut bridge, or any open pored bridge wood for that matter?

Also, what is the standard size drill bit for drilling bridge pin holes?

Thanks to all for answering these questions.

Ron M.
Top
 Profile  
 
Michael Dale Payne
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 4:53 pm 
Offline
Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
first question it is not uncommon to fill and finish a bridge but not neeaded in most caes. I hust lemon oil allwow to soak in and dry out a few days and polish out on the buffer.

On pins most pins have a small end diameteer of around .17" 4.3mm. I drill out at .1875"4.76mm and ream to proper fit. This may vary from pin maker to pin maker so check the diameter about 1/8" up from the bottom of the pin and use tht as your drill hole size. This will leave room for reaming
Top
 Profile  
 
Ron M.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:37 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
Hi Michael,
Thank you for answering the questions for me.

Ron
Top
 Profile  
 
Ron M.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:05 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
ToddStock wrote:
You might also do a polish on the walnut and see how it shines up. A buffed, unfinished bridge can look great.


That seems simple enough. Thanks Todd.
Top
 Profile  
 
Ron M.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 5:53 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
A have another question:
Should the bridge pins holes be drilled before ramping the bridge or after?

Thanks,
Ron M.
Top
 Profile  
 
Goobie
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:24 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:28 pm
Posts: 61
Location: Abbotsford BC, Canada
I do it before to make it easier to mark and drill your holes with accuracy. As well as to keep your bit from skating off center.. But that's only with the way I carve my bridge. There may be cases depending on your bridge shape where it could make sense to do it after?!?

Cheers,
Chad
Top
 Profile  
 
Ron M.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:28 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
ToddStock wrote:
My Weissenborn pins are 90 degrees to the slope of the bridge surface - in other words, they tilt back about 15 degrees. I pre-drill the pin holes prior to final shaping, but after putting the ramp on the bridge...I bevel the pin holes after the bridge is in place. FWIW, I don't drill all the way through - just deep enough to allow the holes to be easily opened once the bridge is in place, but not deep enough to open prior to the bridge getting glued in place (thus avoiding a bunch of hide glue squeezeout).


I never thought about glue squeeze out being an issue. Thanks Todd for the heads up.

You wrote "...I bevel the pin holes after the bridge is in place."

Are you referring to countersinking the bridge pin holes?

lots of good info Todd, thank you.

Ron M.
Top
 Profile  
 
Ron M.
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:22 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 326
Location: New York City
First name: Ron
Last Name: Y
Thanks for the lesson Todd.

Ron M.
Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  Page 1 of 1
  [ 11 posts ] 

Board index » Luthiers Forum Rooms » Guitar Building Forum

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], doncaparker and 58 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com