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Needing to have more visibility/ maneuverability than my osc drum sander provides, I'm looking at getting a pin sander. I read some posts here where some of you have Elevate's sander. Looking for any insight on V1 vs V2 style. I don't relish wrapping paper onto a drum (the V2) but thought I would ask- they are kind of expensive.... The only use I have planned is sanding the contour lines of the neck to headstock transition.

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Take a look at this—different approach but same goal. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/to ... ow-sanders

Is your Osc a spindle sander or a thickness sander?

I would be scared to sand the neck to headstock transition with it. That’s because I’m scared of it in general. Don’t get me wrong, I use it to flatten sides on every instrument. Doesn’t mean I’m not scared of it.

This helps with control - https://a.co/d/9RWDD8j


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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I use a Grizzly pneumatic one, https://www.grizzly.com/products/shop-f ... nder/d4595. Works OK for me but I've sanded a side a little too thin before and the sanding sleeves aren't cheap. Check out this one on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Spindle-Hand-Hel ... B0CNTDFQHG. It's a way cheaper way to try it than Elevate or Grizz. It's got solid drums too not pneumatic. For that price I think I'll give it a try.

For that area of the neck (neck to headstock transition), I like to use dragon rasps, rat rail rasps, and then the bow sander referenced by Bob above. It's crazy how smooth it winds up looking after the bow sander has its way with the wood. I worry about using power tools in that area, but I have done it. Things go awfully fast with power tools . . .

At times I use sanding sleeves by hand. You can see what you're doing and can vary the shape by squeezing the sleeve. Sometimes power tools get you into trouble real fast.

The two sizes of the Grizzly pneumatic sander are a major part of my neck heel - shaft transition.
I use them to hog off wood to get close and finish with the usual rasps, scrapers etc.

IMG_7094 by Terence Kennedy, on Flickr

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Spindle..... but I cant see the line I'm sanding to with the OSSander

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Thats a great picture Terrance.
I took out the center portion of the neck before the heel and headstock. I think I like your sequence better- this was my first scratch neck build. I ended up using dragon files and amazed how near perfect it turned out, although I was having my doubts for a while.

I still want a Pin Sander though....

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

I received the pin sander I referenced above. It's got two roller sizes 1" and 1.5" and came with 5 sleeves for each. They seem to be about 100 grit. The rollers are 4.25" long so are great for neck shaping not so much for sides on larger acoustics. I think it was a good deal. Here's a pic along side a Grizzly...

Thank you for the update.
I went and looked at those, and a number of similar ones on amazon. The main complaint with most was that they were not eccentric and wobbled badly. Guessing that you didn't have that problem?

I don't have a problem spending the money for the Elevate sander, but was hoping someone would comment about version 1 (use sleeves) vs version 2 (wrap you own paper).

Wouldn't be a bad idea to start inexpensive to see how I like using a pin sander in my shop.

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Measure Twice,

Karl Borum

Slight wobble but about the same as the Grizzly. From my tests it didn't cause a problem. Good price just to see if it works for you.

I have V2, wrap the abrasive, no problem with PSA if you follow his method (r. I bought 2 rolls of the 120 grit.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

I have the V2 version also. First go around, with the standard paper it was a b*tch to get it off to change. Had to,soak in solvent and then scrape. A lot. I have the newer premium film back paper now which I haven’t tried but it’s not cheap.