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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:51 pm 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:38 am
Posts: 639
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:54 pm 
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Well, I'm not sure this is that helpful-however, I did learn to convert for one whole lot of $ less than the $ estimated before.Hope the size is within the rules.Wow, my workbench is a mess.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 2:57 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2761
Location: Tampa Bay
First name: Dave
Last Name: Anderson
City: Clearwater
State: Florida
Zip/Postal Code: 33755
Country: United States
Thanks Mike,That was an excellant explanation. Oh yeah,you're not the only stubborn ol fart around here! I like using hand tools too

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Anderson Guitars
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:31 pm 
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Maybe the better perspective.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 3:40 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2006 12:48 pm
Posts: 42
Location: United States
ok. where can i get a longer block plane? i checked ebay but all they have is "antique" junk. and thanks to everybody for all the help.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 4:44 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:20 pm
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I wouldn't be so quick to discount that antique "junk"

search for a Stanley #7 Plane. You can get them usually at a pretty fair price. They will probably require a bit of tuning, but it is an afternoon that will pay dividends long into the future.

If you want to bypass that, just buy a Lie Nielsen. They are mucho expensive, but very very nice.

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http://www.polingguitars.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 6:20 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 6:25 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Netherlands
I have a piece of old ebay 'Junk'; a Stanley Baily #5 from the 1915-1930 era (I believe), BRW handles, but a great tool (Far better than any modern Stanley). Works just fine for jointing tops, IMO, although I wouldn't say no to a #7...Mattia Valente38739.597974537


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 7:38 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 6:16 am
Posts: 2244
Location: United States
First name: michael
Last Name: mcclain
City: pendleton
State: sc
Zip/Postal Code: 29670
Status: Professional
i use a no 5 in preference to a no 6 or 7 as the bigger versions are just too cunbersome. and of my 12 or so planes all came from garage and estate sales, flea markets and auctions, the most expensive being a no 7 at $25. unless you spend the very big bucks for a l-n or similar you have to tune the new ones anyhow.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:14 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
The first top I joined I used the sanding method. My sander was a precision milled 4' level with 3M sticky back 80 grit applied. I used a basic shooting board configuration to hold the wood. I could not figure out why it was taking so many attempts to get it right till I double checked the level. Sure enough there was a bow in the level.

I switched several years ago to using a jointing plane on the shooting board. But recently I bought one of those StewMac precision milled aluminum tubing fret levelers, So I thought for kicks I would give it a try on the shooting board. First try dead on.

My guess is if you are having spots not meet, then the problem is either the material is moving or the sanding vehicle is not perfectly flat.


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