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I just had an inlay redone and the area left from another inlay was filled with ebony dust and CA. Now there is a visible "shadow" on the headplate next to the new inlay. I thought the finish would conceal this but it doens't seem to help...
Anyone have a way to help this issue?

Thanks

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Peter,

The filled routing is quite noticeable.

If it were me, I think I would jut replace the headplate...Sorry I don't have a better idea for ya!

There is no finish on the headstock now... I thought about dying the headstock but I'm afraid to get it on the bindings.

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Hi Peter,

Have you tried to lightly/carefully sand the shadow, sometimes that seems to really help when using CA and dust on ebony.

Greg

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Gwaltney Guitars

Don't mean to be nosy..but did you have this done by someone else and they sent it back to you this way?

EDIT>>>Don't answer my above question if you feel you are putting someone on the spot...

Replace the headplate- that's my suggestion. Once somebody starts to look carefully- and the logo is a magnet for close inspection- they will notice even the best cover-up.

It's a chunk of cash to by/make(?) a new headplate, but will probably be quicker than fiddling with micro touch-ups for hours.

John

Well, the reason there was the need to redo the original inlay is because the one I did was not up to my expectations so I had it redone. So the new font did not cover the old inlay totaly.... I can always remove the headplate and start over but OBVIOUSLY I am trying to avoid that...

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Since it's still unfinished, why not rub a little shellac on it and see what it will look like. The shellac is easily removed and will let you know if it will look right under finish.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

    I hate to say this but the pearl is very nice the actually inletting gaps are too heavy to hide well. They are many ways to inlet . I don't use dust as a fill as the dust tends to halo. I will color the glue as this seems to work better.
    I did a little seminar at Sylvan Wells shop a few weeks ago. I use a sharpie , some activator and superglue. This works very well for filling voids on inlay works.
     I do like the idea of seeing what it would look like under a finish first. It may not look as bad as the reflective qualities of the glue in the dust may be magnifying this
john hall

1) Rout out the glued area, AND the inlay in a pattern that can be variable but re-inlaid cleanly.
2) Make sure the grain and wood type is similar, and insert a new wood plug as if you were inlaying it clean.

4) Sand and level the plug.

5) Re-inlay a new inlay.

Finish- and then go over the ebony with ebony dye like a fingerboard. It will even out any wood quality imperfections.

If done properly it should be invisible.
OR- just try dying the veneer as is first- it may darken out the headplate so that the new darker area isn't as noticeable.

Good luck.
Craig Lavin

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www.handcraftinlay.com

I certainly don't have the chops that our two inlay experts above have, but I have another suggestion.

Why not glue down a piece of 0.020" black fiber over top of the face. You would have to re-do the binding, but you could easily re-route the inlay channel using the existing channel as a guide, use a small dia bit around the edges, than just drop the fiber down into the cavity to gain back your height.

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