Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Thu Dec 12, 2024 3:38 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:40 am 
Offline
Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:25 am
Posts: 21
Location: United States
I sprayed a lacquer finish on my guitar and I let it cure for two weeks. I have leveled the finish and sanded up to 2000 grit. I was wondering what grit of buffing compound I should start with? I have medium, fine and very fine Menzerna compounds. Please let me know what will work best.

Thanks, Steve


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:52 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
Posts: 4662
Location: Napa, CA
I normally wet sand to 12,000 grit Micromesh and then buff starting at Menzerna Fine followed by extra-fine.

You could try to start at fine and do a small area. If it doesn't remove the 2000 grit scratches then go back and start at medium.


_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:01 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 4:09 am
Posts: 841
Location: Auburn, California
First name: Hank
Last Name: Mauel
City: Auburn
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95603
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Also consider the "grade" of buff you use. They generally run flannel, soft cotton and a "domet" buff, hardest to softest material. Mixing the buffs with different compounds will give varied results depending on what grit sanding you stopped at. In this case, I think you could start with a soft cotton buff and fine grit on your 2000 grit sanded finish, then go to a domet buff with fine grit. That may be all you need, but your eyes will tell you.

An aside, if you are going to continue with finish work on more guitars, I'd finish up some test pieces of wood, sand them to what you think will be your "standard", then buff them out using various combos of buff/grits to see what works for your situation. Cheaper to learn there than on a finished guitar.

_________________
Hank Mauel


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:04 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 4:09 am
Posts: 841
Location: Auburn, California
First name: Hank
Last Name: Mauel
City: Auburn
State: CA
Zip/Postal Code: 95603
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Correction: Flannel should read "muslin". It's the hardest material. Soft cotton and "flannel" are pretty much the same...depends on what the manufacturer calls it.

_________________
Hank Mauel


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:02 am 
Offline
Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:25 am
Posts: 21
Location: United States
Thank you Hank for the tip on making some sample pieces for finishing and buffing. I think I'll try that.

Steve


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:58 am 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 4:04 am
Posts: 313
Location: United States
First name: Paul
Last Name: Bordeaux
City: Massena
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 13662
Country: US
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Steve,
Not sure how many guitars you've buffed, but also be careful with pressure. As stated by Hesh, you can catch an edge, but you can also melt the lacquer if you press into the wheel too hard,(think friction).

Also view your work under different lighting conditions.
I used to take an instrument outdoors, in shade and sunlight; indoors under flourescent and incandescent lighting. You'll be surprised at the marks you'll find on what you thought was a finished buff job!

I had the "pleasure" of running a small crew of guys fixing up close to 10,000 "Made in India " Strats for Fender back around 1990 while working at Carruthers guitars. Two of us buffed finishes for 7-9 hours a day, 5 - 6 days / week for approximately 10 weeks. Once we got back to our high end custom instruments, the finishes looked incredible.( Not to mention how strong our lat muscles became!) Lots of practice there.

Good luck.
Paul

_________________
Paul Bordeaux
http://www.bordeauxinlay.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:03 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 6:16 am
Posts: 2244
Location: United States
First name: michael
Last Name: mcclain
City: pendleton
State: sc
Zip/Postal Code: 29670
Status: Professional
that was intensive buff.... er buffing training, to say the least!!!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:07 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:51 am
Posts: 3786
Location: Canada
If you are sanding to 2000, I would say go right to the glans wach (extra fine)

I sand to 1000 only, and then fine and extra fine on the wheels, then a bit of hand polish with Meguiars 10.

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com