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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:40 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:25 am
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Location: United States
I sprayed a lacquer finish on my guitar and I let it cure for two weeks. I have leveled the finish and sanded up to 2000 grit. I was wondering what grit of buffing compound I should start with? I have medium, fine and very fine Menzerna compounds. Please let me know what will work best.

Thanks, Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 1:52 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
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Location: Napa, CA
I normally wet sand to 12,000 grit Micromesh and then buff starting at Menzerna Fine followed by extra-fine.

You could try to start at fine and do a small area. If it doesn't remove the 2000 grit scratches then go back and start at medium.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:01 am 
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Koa
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Also consider the "grade" of buff you use. They generally run flannel, soft cotton and a "domet" buff, hardest to softest material. Mixing the buffs with different compounds will give varied results depending on what grit sanding you stopped at. In this case, I think you could start with a soft cotton buff and fine grit on your 2000 grit sanded finish, then go to a domet buff with fine grit. That may be all you need, but your eyes will tell you.

An aside, if you are going to continue with finish work on more guitars, I'd finish up some test pieces of wood, sand them to what you think will be your "standard", then buff them out using various combos of buff/grits to see what works for your situation. Cheaper to learn there than on a finished guitar.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:04 am 
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Koa
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Correction: Flannel should read "muslin". It's the hardest material. Soft cotton and "flannel" are pretty much the same...depends on what the manufacturer calls it.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:02 am 
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Walnut
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Thank you Hank for the tip on making some sample pieces for finishing and buffing. I think I'll try that.

Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:58 am 
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Cocobolo
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Steve,
Not sure how many guitars you've buffed, but also be careful with pressure. As stated by Hesh, you can catch an edge, but you can also melt the lacquer if you press into the wheel too hard,(think friction).

Also view your work under different lighting conditions.
I used to take an instrument outdoors, in shade and sunlight; indoors under flourescent and incandescent lighting. You'll be surprised at the marks you'll find on what you thought was a finished buff job!

I had the "pleasure" of running a small crew of guys fixing up close to 10,000 "Made in India " Strats for Fender back around 1990 while working at Carruthers guitars. Two of us buffed finishes for 7-9 hours a day, 5 - 6 days / week for approximately 10 weeks. Once we got back to our high end custom instruments, the finishes looked incredible.( Not to mention how strong our lat muscles became!) Lots of practice there.

Good luck.
Paul

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 4:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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that was intensive buff.... er buffing training, to say the least!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 6:07 am 
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Contributing Member
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If you are sanding to 2000, I would say go right to the glans wach (extra fine)

I sand to 1000 only, and then fine and extra fine on the wheels, then a bit of hand polish with Meguiars 10.

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