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I have been mostly just notching the kerfing for the brace tucks. Do most do that, or cut into sides some. problem has been somewhat on the top, as they have angles. Dont know if best to just cut the kerf or notch sides some also. The upper arm on the X gets pretty long/wide whatever the proper term is

Stan, I just notch through the linings, up to the side. I know that others, if I remember correctly Mario does this, notch all the way through the side.

The binding is going to cover it up anyway so I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

i cut the notches through the side. think it gives slightly greater strucural integrity, as well as being a much quicker and cleaner operation than trying to notch just the linings. and as dave says, the bindings are going to cover them anyway.

just another example of an aspect of building where there is not a "right" way to do it.

michael mcclain

I cut through the sides. I find that I can get a much more consistent cut to notch both the linings and the side. I use a dedicated laminate trimmer set to 1/8". I use another jig to set the ends of the braces to be tucked at 1/8". Then everything fits together nicely! If you are going to cut through the sides make sure that the cut is no more than 1/8" or, chances are, your binding will not cover it! Measure before you do it!

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

I cut the notches with my dremel tool on a router base. I cut up to the sides but not through. I was cutting through the sides until I sent a little deep and it wasn't covered with the binding. It was rosewood so I was able to fix it just fine. So if your going to cut through the sides I would just say be careful like the others have said. I find that I am doing a much better job with the dremel. Much cleaner.

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
https://www.facebook.com/canadianluthiersupply?ref=hl
House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

I cut through the sides as well and use a lam trimmer. I used to notch by hand using a file and it was prety sloppy looking. The lam trimmer makes a nice square shoulder for a much neater fit.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

I usually when going through sides, score it some with a small blitz saw(don't know if right term, just what other called it) I use the dremel with base as it cuts well. I am not sure for me anyway the extra size and power of lam trimmer would be required as pretty soft stuff. Sometimes I get the tool time guy syndrome (from tv show) and find more power, can cause me more mistakes. Guess this whole new batch of 6 which will be ready for the tuck process soon will all go through the sides.

For the top, I don't cut notches at all. I remove a couple of kerfs of the lining. When the top is glued on, I replace the lining in those areas. This guarantees that the lining is in contact with the brace. I've always assumed that it was structually sound because classical builders use seperate tantalones (sp?) on their tops. There used to be a picture in a previous post and I was going to put in a link to it but the picture doesn't seem to have been save in the message archive.

For the back, I route out the notch with the dremmel on a router base. I go all the way through the side.

Notch all the way through, but I set the notch at only .060" same as a piece of celluloid binding flat.

Add .060 and .110 my top thickness and I get .170". With .200 tall bindings that leaves .030 for clearance to cover the braces. I wish the braces were thicker in the notch, but it seems to be working.

I knotch though the sides mainly as a index point for fitting the tops and backs to the rim. When I get ready to glue the tops and backs to the rim, They just drop into place with little chance of shifting while clamping. I take great pains to fit the knotches tight to the brace stock with no interferance or slop. That way I am assured that the mate-up is sqare and flush with out any un-due added stress imposed on the rim.