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I'm in the exact same predicament as you, so I'll be watching this thread closely.

How long is the bit you're using? I notice that your 310 looks almost maxed out on height, and you've still got quite a bit of bit showing. I ran into the same thing, I wasn't confident that the router would hold it's height adjustment. I ended up attaching my 7310 and it worked out better for that. Kind of a bummer, because I bought the 310 to use on this jig. I did finally find a place that had a 2" long 1/4" downcut spiral bit, instead of the usual 2-1/2", so maybe that'll help.

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I think it'll work well once we get a holding jig for the guitar nailed down. The other thought I had was making a caul to clamp the jig in a vise, then bringing the guitar to the tool instead of the other way around. I think for now I'd rather have the guitar stationary.

You might try the 2" bit, I found mine at Woodcraft, I haven't taken it out of the package yet. It's item # is 822103. link

A 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" long bit would be about perfect for the 310. 2-1/2" seems to be the most common size, though, I looked around a lot. If anyone has a good source for shorter bits...

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

Hesh
I have the same tool and I don't use it for the same reason. You need two
hands to hold the tool correctly and you have to hold the guitar still and
have enough clearance for the tool to go around the guitar. It is about the
only luthier specific tool I don' use. I now use a Ribbicke style binding cutter

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

The videos on the luthiertool site show two different but similar jigs for holding the guitar steady.

linkletseatpaste39033.9764236111

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Jonathan Kendall, Siloam Springs AR

I've been contemplating this myself. How about making one of those cradles that are used with various types of binding setups? Make the base heavy--maybe a couple layers of three-quarter ply or MDF--and then make the adjustable "clamps" short enough to clear the hand-held tool. Perhaps line them with rubber or another grip-worthy substance.

How about setting something up that will allow you to utilise your radius dish as a base to support the back/top? Some sort of low frame that fastens to the side of the dish and clamps the git low down on the sides using toggles or wedges. It should not be too hard to work out. At least the surface area on the base of the dish should provide plenty of friction to prevent movement, especially if placed onto a router mat.

Cheers

Kim

Hesh
LMI give Tom Ribbecke Credit for this type



I love it
Works great. You do need a bearing set. So it isn't infinitely adjustable as
the luthiers tool versiom
azimmer139034.0019444444

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

As a quick fix - I would recommend using double-sided sticky tape on
the complimentary radius dish. It should be more than steady enough to
not worry about the body flying off somewhere.

However, the ideal thing would be vacuum clamping. LMII sells a really
nice clamping fixture that would fit the bill perfectly. And it would be
useful for other things as well.

But being the frugal person that I am, I would just use tape.

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Simon

[QUOTE=SimonF] As a quick fix - I would recommend using double-sided sticky tape on
the complimentary radius dish.

--
Simon

[/QUOTE]

I thought about that too but would be concerned with grain tearout on the top, but then again, if Hesh is going to paint it black he could just fill it with auto dent filling bog

Hesh
I just realized thet the holding device I have for the Ribbecke style would hold it well for the Luthiers tool version. You would just have to place it high in the holder and then clamp the holder down to your bench

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Andy Z.
http://www.lazydogguitars.com

Hesh, i use my guitar vise for this and my home made jig that works much like your set up, take a look:







Cheers

Hesh, you could use the dish as other have said and just take a thin piece of material, say 1/4" x 2" by 24" long with some cork on of the 2" wide faces. Now use a couple of your cam clamps and clamp the body to the dish with the "clamping caul" on the top. Route the areas you can, than move the clamp. Flip the body onto your top radius dish and do the same.

Simple, cheap and easy.

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I can see that I'm too late. Date night got in the way . Don't let my wife read this

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

LMII Vacuum Clamp as already mentioned.
Hesh, up to you buddy, but I have one mounted to my work bench, you probably seen it when you were here last.
Anytime you want you can shoot over and use it.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

    Tom Ribbeke and the Don Williams jigs are superior as the body is held on a platform. I tried alot of different jigs when I started building. The platform styles are the best . The one thing you need to note , not all trim routers use a 90 degree base where they mount ,and you have to adjust for that. The variable bases makes the williams jig difficult to adjust ,
   The ribbeke can me shimmed and clamped to accomodate the variance in base angles
john hall

I used the Ribbeke jig for about 15 years. I think I built the very first one
from LMI's plans and actually wrote a very favorable review for LMI about
it. However, it requires much more care in the setup and operation than I
liked. I was always worried about how this binding job would come out. I
just never felt comfortable with pushing the guitar through the jig. In
fairness, it always worked well.
A year and a half ago I built Don Williams jig from the drawings and
photos on his web site. It is a far superior method. I literally can cut the
binding slots on a guitar blindfolded (I don't). Within the first month of
building the Williams jig I sold my original Ribbecke style binder as it was
no longer needed in my shop. Don Williams' implementation of Harry
Fleischmann's idea is about as perfect a system as you can get.
Absolutely no apprehension in cutting the binding slots on any
instrument. I would strongly urge everyone here to stop fooling around
with other systems and build or get the one that will last you throughout
your guitar building days.

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

Hesh,

Build a vacuum holder:



The binding jig you are about to use works--I've used it for the last two years--but I'm not overly thrilled with it. It's time for me to invest the time in building a Williams-style jig, as Sylvan recommends.

Best,

Jim

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James Warwick
J. Warwick Guitars, LLC
http://www.jwarwickguitars.com

Hesh,

Russell came up with this neat body holding jig some time back.

Come back from your "other job" travels soon Russell - we miss you

By the way - I agree with Sylvan, the Fleischman-Williams is the dogs doo dahs

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

Dave, I'm in the middle of making Russell's guitar holder, and a F/W/W binding jig, shamelessly stealing your idea for the second lazy Susan bearing so that the router can rotate. I can then use my DeWalt with the bearing follower and a downcut bit. What size bearing did you use on the router end? I know Axminster has them do you know any other good source?

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Colin,

I got mine at Isaac Lord which is just down the road. I used their 150LS one shown here.

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

I like the idea of clamping the jig and bringing the guitar to the jig. Where I used to work, this is how all of the guitars were cut for binding and such. They used routers with the same sort of setup but it should work just fine with your jig. I don't think you can cut too deep that way just too shallow (not sure about this). Just take a couple of passes and be real deliberate. Just my .02$. (I use the jig that azimmer has pics of and like it a lot, but was tempted by your jig when I saw it ).

Good luck,
HomeboyHomeboy39034.5265046296