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Michael's question got me to wondering something. And instead of just hijacking that thread, it seemed best to ask a second question. It was stated that an unbound refret went for a cheaper price than a bound refret.
Well-- I've got that nifty little fret tang nipper that Stew-Mac sells, as do most of you, no doubt. (By the way, that's the single most useful gadget I've ever bought.) It makes a bound refret so simple; and then, there is no lacquer damage to worry about like there would be when filing down the exposed tangs on an unbound board. Which tempts me to charge the same price for either job, if not MORE for an unbound board! For instance, I hate working on a Fender maple neck.
Ok--so what's the question? I guess this: do I hear an amen? Does anyone else view this job differently now that they own the fret tang nipper?

TIA,
Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I'll give ya an amen on that one! I'd rather refret a bound board too. The
lacquer chipout is much easier to screw up....

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Steve,
I hate those lacquer chips too. But I charge more for a bound fretboard - refret. I hate the fender boards even more... although lately I have been doing as Dan Erlewine suggests and hammering them out sideways to prevent chiping. Much better. I charge a little extra for the fenders because of that too. I guess it's what do you like/dislike the most. SM's nipper(s) is/are great(I have both sizes)! But it still takes more time...and I don't always get a good clean cut with the nipper so I wind up with wasted fret wire or cleaning up the cut. either way more time. If I didn't have the nipper tho life would be much tougher on those bound boards...so I guess I realy have nothing to add Charge a lot for all re-frets!!!!

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

You know Steve I hadn't thought of it and went by what seen others do and charge sheet from school. I build with bound necks and with the nippers it is easier. Cut the tang right put it in (not as simple as the words) but does make since on a finished neck. AMEN. Loved the article on the guitar swap in latest GAL

I am with Dave on the Maple and fender necks. Do them, but not really look for them and have more than once said thanks but no thanks

Wait a second. This thread is about lowering our prices? Steve you are far too generous! So what if its easier to do a clean refret on a bound fretboard... you have to pay for that nipper tool, no? Granted only once, but still. What if you need to deepen the slots? This is much harder with binding.

Also, a bit of shellac will fix most issues I've had when doing refrets, and is very quick.

The most important point though, is that people expect to pay a bit more for it, and no one ever accused us of getting rich off any of this.

Okay my vote for "single most useful gadget I've bought" is the Safe-T Planer. Not to hijack your thread steve jfrench38457.4835763889

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Instagram: @jfrenchluthier
Web: https://www.jfrenchguitars.com/

Thanks, gents. I find a bound board so much easier to do that it is standard here when building. And not just that I like the look--which I do-- but from a building standpoint it makes so much sense. So whenever a guitar of mine comes back, a refret is that much easier.

I do enjoy the discussion of blue book prices. It is a real help.

Dave--driving them out sideways, eh? You're my hero. I know that has got to do a number on the lacquer. Do you spot fill the little divots?

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Howdy guys--Several of you got in while I was mumbling over that last post.

Stan--thanks. Glad you liked the article.

Joshua--The nipper tool was bought ages ago (right after the earth cooled). It is figured into the price of my building, so it is gratis as far as repair goes. But I get your point, and if one was just starting out, that price would need to be factored in. Excellent point about deepening the fret slots. That's the sort of thing that always comes up and surprises me. I'll be muttering to myself and wondering why I quoted such a low price? How could I forget this again?

So I'm set now to raise my prices. Expect another flood of East Texas customers Joshua.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Okay my vote for "single most useful gadget I've bought" is the Safe-T Planer. Not to hijack your thread steve [/QUOTE]

I agree! The safe-T-Planer is great but don't let the name fool you. It can be unsafe at times.

[QUOTE=Steve Kinnaird]
Dave--driving them out sideways, eh? You're my hero. I know that has got to do a number on the lacquer. Do you spot fill the little divots?
[/QUOTE]

I use a screwdriver type bit ( no handle) and pound them out sideways...first I score the lacquer at the ends of the frets. Because it comes out sideways there is almost no lacquer chip out. If you pull them out like others then the chip out is real bad. According to Erlewine the frets were put in sideways and that's why they come out Easier sideways. Once you get the knack of it ...it's not so bad. Like everything there's a technique to it.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Don't forget about the bound fingerboards with the nibs Now that should be a huge mark up.

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

dave

true of the older fenders, but i don't think they've pulled them in sideways for 20 odd yrs or so. pulled in bass toward treble; drive em out treble toward bass.

i think that chiping of the flat sawn fret boards and lacquor is the reason to drive the "modern" ones out. crazymanmichael38458.6354166667