Official Luthiers Forum!

No...handmade yachts.   

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

on the other hand i thought yu might be developing a market for hand carved braces among the brobdignagians!

Remember that time I tried to pick that one up and chipped a nail. AHHHHH, that was awful!
Then there was the time I dropped it and it got caught in my skirt and tore the hem line.
BTW: you did a nice job chopping all of those scarf joints with that big tool.

Pay no attention to the scarf joint behind the curtain, Tinkerbell!

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

Me, I like my 2 cherries chisels. Don't buy sets, buy the ones you want/need as you need them. My most used ones are 18mm, 12mm, 6mm, 3mm and 2mm chisels. Yes, the tiny tiny ones are great.

I like other Japanese tools, but I'm not all that tempted to try chisels or planes, to be perfectly honest. The ones I've handled don't have the balance I want, blades are too short for me, don't feel quite 'right'. I'm always on the look-out for good old-fashioned steel chisels. Socket would be nice. Or some firmers. Or a bit of everything.

I got the Veritas MkII honing guide on a closeout sale at Tools and Space, and Im not impressed! The jig itself is awesome except mine is 2.5deg out it appears - The company men at Lee Valley werent very helpful when I complained either.
I heard someone else had the exact same problem here on OLF also.
Im sure a good working MkII is excellent though - so take a chisel and make sure its correct when you buy it.
I bought Pfeil and some LMI chisels and find both exemplary for the tasks upon which Ive employed them.
They arent cheap - well I got the LMI's second hand at the swap meet here and saved some money on account of a kind member here.
Good luck
Cheers
Charliewood

For me, I still like the long Sorby paring chisels. But like Paul says, I only really use my 1/2 inch for braces, along with a couple of different finger planes. These small planes are the things to get. If I was looking to get just what I needed, I would be the 1/2 inch Sorby paring chisel and the largest of the Ibex curved bottom planes that Lee Valley sells. Some don't like the Sorby and say that it doesn't hold an edge very well, that has not been my experience and I have a lot chisels, including a full set of Japanese Chisels, some 30 year old Footprints and a full range pof Timber Framing Chisels, including a Japanese slick worth over $250. I really like the Sorby paring chisel....did I say that yet?

I also like the 1/4 Sorby and the 1/16 and 1/8 inch Japanese chisels, but you can get by with just the 1/2 inch to start and some old cheap thing for cleaning glue and other abusive activities!

Shane

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Canada

Little? Little? Why I oughtta....   

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

In the right hands, I bet it is. I cannot wield the thing with any confidence, however. It was a gift from a non-woodworker who's boat-building grandfather had died.

Since I've completey hijacked this thread with nonsense, I suppose I should at least post an opinion on the actual topic.

I think anything above $20 each will make you happy. After that, it comes down to aesthetics and feel. I like the really thin, long blades with low angle bevels on the sides. I feel like I can see better and I have more control.

As for one keeping an edge longer than another, I think they're all about the same. I know that won't be a popular opinion, but look at it like this; it's only super-duper sharp for the first 3-5 cuts. Then you get average performance for the next 10-20 cuts until you need to strop it. After 5-10 stroppings it needs sharpening.

Whether you're on the low end of that scale or the high end depends a lot more on your number of bevels and bevel angle than it does on how much you spend.

Get two 1/2" chisels of the same make. Put a single bevel on one. Put a double bevel on the other with a third micro-bevel. This is a tortoise and hare scenario. The single will cut a heck of a lot better out of the gate, but will need attention far sooner.John Watkins39041.792025463

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John Watkins
CNC Guitar Parts

Thanks for everyone's input. While all view points are valued I am leaning towards good mid-priced chisels ($20 - $25 each) purchased individually in the 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and maybe 3/4 sizes. I will also pick up a honing guide and stay within my budget.

Thanks!

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Brad
Avon, OH

[QUOTE=Shane Neifer] I really like the Sorby paring chisel....did I say that yet?



Shane[/QUOTE]

I really like the Sorby paring chisels too - I have a 1/2" and 3/4" and I use them alot, although I have to say that all my brace shaping gets done either with a Schneider plane or a Schneider glue clearing chisel.

But I don't have any bench chisels that I can pound on with a mallet - the Two Cherries are on the Christmas list.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[QUOTE=Brad Way] Thanks for everyone's input. While all view points are valued I am leaning towards good mid-priced chisels ($20 - $25 each) purchased individually in the 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and maybe 3/4 sizes. I will also pick up a honing guide and stay within my budget.

Thanks![/QUOTE]

In your hunt consider the Rockwell rating of the steel. Higher = harder. Harder = longer edge keeping. Too hard = brittle which is the complaint of some japanese chisel owners. Harder also equates to more effort in working the steel with a stone. I really don't think any one is better than the other. Each is a compromise is some way. The English/Swedish are suppose to be around 58-59. The German and late American about 61-62 and the Japanese 63-64. I'm sure this varies a bit.

If your thought process leads you to the Two Cherries, You need to know that the highly polished finish leads to slightly rounded edges on the backs of the chisels. So lapping the backs can take a bit longer. It's really not that big of a deal as the backs are otherwise pretty flat to begin with. The other thing is that they are shipped with a clear coating on the entire chisel. Blades too. This needs to be removed from the blades before preparing your backs or edges, lest you gum up your stones. Acetone is a quick fix.

Let us know what you get (with pics) I have a real soft spot for chisels and would love to see what you get.

Ronn...thanks for the feedback. I certainly like the Two Cherries and they come on a high recommendation by many on the OLF. I will drop a note when I get something (or make a decision)...a Christmas gift.

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Brad
Avon, OH

Anyone know anything about MHG chisels?

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11750

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Brad
Avon, OH

[QUOTE=Brad Way] Anyone know anything about MHG chisels?

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11750[/QUOTE]

Go to WoodNet do a search for MHG and you'll find a few opinions. If you decide to buy them join WoodNet and then when you order put in the comments field "Woodnet 15% Discount" and you'll get a 15% discount on your purchase. It won't show on the order form but they will take it of when it's processed. If you're skeptical you can phone in your order and advise the ordertaker of your WoodNet affiliation.

In all candor I haven't ordered from them but this is the story you read on WoodNet.

I build classical guitars and I use a 1.25 inch 2 cherries a lot for shaping the heel block, the foot, the ledge on the heel block for the top, and the ramp and sweep of the neck.

I had a 1/2 inch Sorby paring chisel that was my favorite, but it walked off during a lutherie class last year, Replace with a 2 cherries 1/2 inch that is OK, but I miss the Sorby. I also use a 2mm LMI chisel for paring the binding slot and ledge into the heel.

Also, I use a Hock "glue clearing" chisel for shaping the brace ends on the back and the ends of the transverse and harmonic bars on the top. It takes a long time to get that chisel flat and sharp, but it makes quick work of the brace end shaping.

[Quote=RCoates]Go to WoodNet do a search for MHG and you'll find a few opinions[/QUOTE]

Ronn..thanks for the info...I checked out the MHG's chisels on WoodNet and it seems they might be a good value buy BUT they have some cons. I learned long ago that it is worth spending a few extra bucks for a good tool.

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Brad
Avon, OH

Brad-
I notice a lot of the recommended tools are intended for driving with a hammer/mallet (notice the steel rings, or the tough plastic handles...)
If you want something for general use around the shop they will be fine. For finer work, especially with softwoods, you will likely find the bevel angle too steep, and the whole tool a bit clumsy. I've got a bunch of these and they are just the ticket for chopping mortises or quick dovetails.
For working on instruments, you need paring chisels. I bought a few from Bill Lewis aka Lewis Luthier Supply in Vancouver years ago and they are fantastic tools. Lewis was bought by LMI and the chisels they carry look just like mine. I also agree with the many posters who have suggested buying a few very good chisels rather than a set, and also the suggestions about getting a good sharpening system of some kind.
Have fun- working with sharp edge tools (not carbide router bits!) is one of the nicer parts of woodwork.
John

John...very insightful. Thanks!

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Brad
Avon, OH

Check out Hartville Tool. They have a great sale on a very nice set. I have
those, plus the LMI paring chisels in the 1mm, 2mm, and 3mm sizes. I also
have several specialty Pfeil chisels from Woodcraft.

The Pfeil's are pretty affordable for the quality as well - I think they can be had for much less than the LMI chisels although the steel is just sub-standard comparatively - so I have been told by knowledgeable persons.
Cheers
charliewood

[QUOTE=Shane Neifer] I really like the Sorby paring chisel....did I say that yet?



Shane[/QUOTE]

I have a Sorby paring chisel that used to belong to my Grandfather (He was a cabinet maker) and I love it too.

For the rest of my chisels I use Hirsch Firmer and they are great.