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C'mon Serge! Just a little patch to show us how sharp them chisels really are!

-Mark

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Pullman, WA

The more I know, the more I know I don't know.

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I have the same honing guide but have problems getting the exact dgree of bevel. Is there a jig or something to set the angle in the guide?

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

I have since looked at the online video and have been educated. I'm about to cut some angled stock for the jig.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

Thanks Ron, i'll check them out too, and same here on the sharpening, maybe even more than a day since i'm discoring this and my old chisels and one plane blade are in such a bad shape!

Sam, as Ron said and this is the way i learned from the video that is linked above for J. Brown, check it out, it doesn't last long but tells plenty!

Peter, my sharpening skills are the same as if i was dancing disco on classical music!

Mark, No!!!!!!

Greg, you've seen it too, i did the same and made myself a 30 degree cut in a plank to help adjust the honing guide to that bevel but still will check for a better honing guide.

Serge, those are looking pretty darn sharp!

Don't get too carried away and hurt yourself with one of those. I remember a story about a bear with something stuck in his paw....or was that a lion.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Thanks Dave and Todd

Dave, it must have been a Lion!

Todd, thanks a million for the huge input, it means a lot to me and i saved your post once again(starting a Todd Stock file actually ), will do as you say, get the hang of it with this method here untill i feel confident enough to upgrade my sharpening tools!

Thanks again coach!

Serge thanks for the post! I like your set-up better than the one shown in the video.

Thanks bro! Sure will buy some spray adhesive for the next sharpening session though!

Serge -- all kidding aside about shaving your fur.... but were you able to cut hair easily as some say you can using the scary sharp method?

Didn't try that Anthony but i did (stay at a Holiday Inn last night ) try them out on wood and they worked very well!

Serge, I have three or four Sharpening Guides including both Veritas. I only use them on my plane blades. For me it's more practical to sharpen chisels without a guide. I use a small granite block (like your glass), and a piece of 2000 grit paper taped to it. With practice you can get very sharp without a guide, not as sharp as with a guide, but still very sharp. Since hair splitting sharp just doesn't last long on a piece of rosewood I like to sharpen every 2 or 3 minutes (a dozen strokes on both sides of the chisel) while doing a lot of chisel work. If I have to set up in a guide I tend wait longer between sharpening.

Thanks Tood and Marc, advices well understood and appreciated!

Todd, yeah, i don't mind sharpening a few more times a year since this is still a hobby for me and i don't have the dough for that system yet. Your post will remain in case i get TAS and can afford it! Thanks!

Marc, yes, i did try to sharpen without the guide and found that i could get good relative control over the chisel's edge, i like your approach of a few strokes every now and then, will try that, thanks!

Serge

Thats a very nice set-up you made there Serge.I bought one of those Flat glass plates from Garrett Wade I think and it works so good,so scary! I have the same guide as you and definately need to get a better one.It works but I would like one with a wider wheel and more stable.
Nice sharp and shiny chisel Serge!-wtg DaveAndy39091.4263657407

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

Thanks Dave!, i have to say that seeing your last miter job encouraged me to want to get shiny chisels so i could do clean miters too!

Serge,

I really like your glass-holding jig. Great solution!

Concerning the eclipse guide: I've been able to avoid the rocking problem by only applying pressure on the blade, not the guide. Keep a couple of fingers behind the bevel as you sharpen, and use your thumbs behind the guide for stability only. It's still difficult with 1/8", or narrower, chisels, but for everything else it works fine for me.

As for spray adhesive, I haven't had very good luck with the 3M products I've used. They want to clump on the paper, and often don't give even "stickability", which leads to curling corners or edges (and, yes, I've both followed the directions, and deviated from them--same results). The residue they leave behind is also a problem. However, I've found a product that pretty much eliminates all those problems. It's called Duro All-Purpose Spray Adhesive. I can stick the paper to a substrate right after spraying it, it doesn't clump on the paper, it holds the corners down (as long as I spray the paper evenly), the paper comes off the substrate quite easily, and it doesn't leave behind as heavy a residue as the 3M stuff does. The nozzle doesn't clog as readily, either. Duro is a trademark of Loctite Corp. Hope you can find it in the Great White North! Good stuff!

About the spray residue--it comes off cleanly with Naphtha.

Have you ever noticed that when your nice sharp chisel rolls off the work bench it ALWAYS lands blade down? Uncanny. Like a cat.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

Thanks Carlton, your review and advices are really appreciated my friend, will also check if Lee Valley sells spray adhesive other than 3M! Thanks!

Greg, so true!

Looks great my friend! Now the only thing missing is a nice set of fresh, uncut braces that need to be carved so you can try those bad boys out!!!

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Thanks again Todd!

Alain, yes, i was just thinking of the next Lutz braces i'll be carving with them, can't wait! Thanks!Serge Poirier39092.3838425926

[QUOTE=ToddStock] I have not had problems with the 3M 77, but I clean the nozzles in acetone before use and follow the directions to the letter on application.[/QUOTE]
I'm sure that many people have used the 3M products with success, but it was a struggle for me. Pick up a can of the Duro stuff if you get a chance. I think you'll like it, but I'd really like your opinion.

One thing that I find helpful in sharpening that wasn't mentioned...always pull the blade toward you. Moving it back and forth mashes the burr into the bevel and paper and doesn't release from the tool properly. I get a sharper blade sooner when I pull rather than push. Also, you won't gouge the paper with the blade.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

i had that thought while sharpening, you've just confirmed my belief that if i pulled on the chisel, it would do less damage to the burr

Thanks JJ!