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Hi all... another quick question. This is more of an opinion than anything else. I have done all my own nut and saddle work for the better part of 3 years now. On a 1979 HD-28 that I "rescued," (from someone who was selling her-- yikes!) I made my new nut with the lowest action I can get. Great results. Then I changed the strings last night... well, of course, the low E starts rattling something fierce-- more than I like. So, my options now are to either 1) make a new nut or 2) shim the nut. Now, normally I am against shimming a nut. However, this one would only require the thickness of a piece of paper to relieve the buzzing. So, what do you all think about tone quality after shimming a nut? I'm wondering if anyone has been able to hear a percieved difference (i.e., duller tone, etc.). I would think that rather than just "sticking" the paper to the bottom of the nut, if I soaked the paper in glue and laminated it to the bottom of the nut, it would in theory become one solid mass, just like the nut by itself. What say all the sages? (I mean that respectfully!)

John,

Well shimming the nut will certainly improve the tone from where you have it now. I shim by using thin veneer strips under the nut that I attach with double sided tape but have also used thin card in the past. As long as the shim fits the bottom of the nut and is a good fit into the nut slot along the bottom then alll should be fine. If you can "prove" a tone difference (be it better or worse) of doing this compared with a brand new nut then I'll pay for your new nut blank. The "looks" impact of course will change but if it's your own guitar it won't be such an issue. It's worth a try as if you don't like the results you can easily do a new nut.
Dave White39096.4530092593

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

IMHO...If it were for personal use, I'd shim. If it were for sale, I'd make a new nut.

Even though there will probably be no detectable difference in tone, the perception by others will be that you are willing to cut corners and shim a nut rather than give the customer your best effort. Perception is reality to potential customers.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Well I'm not a sage,but I'm gonna guess that you did a setup with a heavier guage string than what you later installed. The whole problem may be cured by a simple trussrod adjustment.

Al

A rattle???
I say build another guitar!!

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

I'd like to ask a question. How do you know it's the nut that's to low? When you hold the offending string down on the first fret does it still buzz? If so, it's not the nut's problem but more likely the action at the saddle is to low or the truss rod was adjusted or something else.Rod True39096.4953587963

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If this is a bone nut, you could do what I've done a couple of times. I've taken some scrap pieces of bone and CA'd them onto the bottom of the bone nut and then sanded it all out and reset the height to where it needs to be. If all the string slots are already relatively where they need to be - this does save some time... and the lamination is permanent and should be pretty much invisible.

Ya gotta quit cutting corners, time to make a new guitar!

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"It's a Tone Faerie thing"
"Da goal is to sharpen ur wit as well as ye Sgian Dubh"
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I agree with KO. Stop cutting corners, make a new guitar. Oh, by the way, you can send that HD to me, I can always use it for spare parts... or something

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Rattle or buzz? I just had one with a "rattle" on the first 5 frets at the 1st to 3d strings and none at others. As went up the neck, no more rattle. Turned out just a loose truss rod. Check setup first (but probably did that anyway) and make sure everything good there. If not in the setup and get buzz, and for sure it is in nut, I would fill the slot and ca the bone material in first. Second would be shim. Depends like someone said if keeping it or selling it. If selling I go the extra and make new nut.stan thomison39096.5796296296

Well, I went for it and just made a new nut. I'm not as happy with the feel of the instrument now, but it's not buzzing. Instead of my usual 5/1000ths clearance over the first fret, I'm now running 10/1000ths. This poor little weakling can sure tell the difference! And it definitely was the offending low E string slot... I'm using the same saddle, same strings, and it's a non-adjustable neck, so that takes all of those variables out of the equation. I'm keeping the guitar, so this nut will do for now, but I'm tempted to make one just a little prettier... these pre-cut bone blanks just don't do the trick for me.

[QUOTE=pharmboycu]and it's a non-adjustable neck[/QUOTE]

I wasn't aware that Martin made non-adjustable necks as late as 1979. Learn something new every day.

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

Yeah... this is one of the later "square tube" non-adjustable ones. The only reason I know that Martin intruduced the adjustable truss rod in 1985 is that my uncle's D-28 is one of the first ones made with the adjustable rod.

Oh yeah-- since I wasn't pleased with the way the nut looked, I made *another* one-- this one turned out GREAT. I couldn't be more pleased and more grateful to everyone for the input... thanks again!

John