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Has anyone ever used a PC 7310 to inlay headstocks or fretboards? Is it too big for that?

I have a dremel with the extension thing but i'm contemplating the idea of building myself an overarm router jig that would use the 7310 on it's platform and a micro adjustment carriage for the parts that will need inlaying (fretboards, bridges, headstock veneers), i would also use this system to route my saddle slots.

If anyone uses a system such as this and is able to post pics and share input, it would really be appreciated also. TIA

Serge

I use one freehand to inlay all the time Serge, headstock logos (did one on a heel cap the other day), fretboards, I have a jig to do saddle slots, backstrips, rosettes ... A smaller footprint would be nice, like AZs foredom type rig, but for now this is fine.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I think the 7310 will not be good for an overarm router. When you loosen the screw set screw to allow you to use the height adjustment wheel the router sags a little and then rises up again when you snug the set screw up.

My fear is this would not always keep the router in perfect alignment over the pin. I would look closely at the 310 instead. Its adjustment keeps the router in a pretty tight vertical alignment.

and FWIW ... I have a pin router. I think it is kind of a pain to do inlay with. I have used it for this purpose, but I often find myself doing it freehand because the set up and adjustment takes longer than routing it freehand. If you are making dozens and dozens of the same thing it might be easier, but for small jobs I don't see any advantage.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Thanks Tony and Brock!

Tony, i do have a rig like Anthony made, i think i'll give it a try before discarding it.

Brock, my thought was that i would build my jig in such a way that i'd be able to take the height adjustment off the 7310 and sit the trimmer in a plexiglass plate, clamped by the top and would build the rig to be lockable on a z axis so to speak. I would then use another jig under the piece to be inlayed that would move in the X and Y axises(sp?) I thought it would be nice to just move the piece under the router bit instead of holding the router itself, does this idea make any sense?

SergeSerge Poirier39107.412650463

Serge your description sounds like you contemplate making an "over/under" duplicarver. What kind of inlay work are you thinking of doing?

To me it sounds like a cool jig, but is it really worth all the effort at the end of the day?

If you have a dremel with a flex shaft and have made a base to hold the flex shaft pencil -- it sounds to me like you are set-up with a nice jig already to freehand route your inlay pockets. This is the same or similar to the set-up that folks like Larry Robinson, Grit Laskin and Craig Lavin use.

If you plan on inlaying into dark wood such as ebony, rosewood or cocobolo any gaps between your inlay pocket and inlay piece are readily filled with flower (saw dust from the inlay substrate) and CA.

You'll find freehand routing a snap - I promise!

Here's an unsolicited tip -- start saving flour from the wood you plan on inlaying into. I save mine in zip lock sandwich bags.

[QUOTE=Anthony Z] Serge your description sounds like you contemplate making an "over/under" duplicarver. What kind of inlay work are you thinking of doing?

To me it sounds like a cool jig, but is it really worth all the effort at the end of the day?

If you have a dremel with a flex shaft and have made a base to hold the flex shaft pencil -- it sounds to me like you are set-up with a nice jig already to freehand route your inlay pockets. This is the same or similar to the set-up that folks like Larry Robinson, Grit Laskin and Craig Lavin use.

If you plan on inlaying into dark wood such as ebony, rosewood or cocobolo any gaps between your inlay pocket and inlay piece are readily filled with flower (saw dust from the inlay substrate) and CA.

You'll find freehand routing a snap - I promise!

Here's an unsolicited tip -- start saving flour from the wood you plan on inlaying into. I save mine in zip lock sandwich bags.

[/QUOTE]

Thanks Anthony, yes i did build a jig like yours and it probably will do the job very well. I guess i've been spoiled with 7310 and the way it performs, going back to the dremel feels kind of weird to me now and i'll admit that i didn't work much with it yet!

I guess your post is the tap behind the back that i needed to start using it again, thanks bro!

Oh and i did save me sawdust flour from all the woods i've worked with, i learned that from Kathy Matsushita!

Serge in written form it is easy to come across as condescending....I hope you didn't take my post that way as that was not my intent.

Hey Serge, I'm pretty sure that you can easily achieve superb results with the dremel extension and some good inlay tools. I'm thinking of buying myself a few good carving tools for just that reason.

No matter what set-up you have, the sharper points and finer details will have to be done by hand anyways. (if you indeed do have sharp points in your design)...

Keep us posted!

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Anthony, i didn't read anything that could have been interpreted that way bro? On the contrary, i think you've just saved me a ton of work on a complicated jig! Oh maybe the quote does that effect? i was going to hit the post reply button but hit the quote one instead, inadvertantly. Thanks bro!

Thanks Al, yeah i will have sharp points to inlay, i also will have to read a bit more on inlaying techniques and tools/materials used, not an easy part of the build, at least, not for me!

Cheers

Serge

Phew -- that's a relief Serge! I've done some inlay and engraving work and would happy to help if I can. I seem to get as excited about your projects as my own