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What do you guys use to seal the ends of your wood?
-j.

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-jack handy

Paraffin...


-Mark

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Pullman, WA

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anchorseal, although I have noticed that it saturates in to the end grain at least 1" at each end and stains it, more so in cedar tops. So I may start using paraffin wax.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I use wax - parafin whenever possible because its stronger and tougher too {especially in colder temps}than beeswax {which I have used if Im storing wood inside or its somehwere where Im 99% sure its not going to be disturbed}.
There are ppl who use glue's and thick paints and different sealers.
Isnt anything that will form a moisture barrier without disrupting or staining the actual wood acceptable? -
or am I wrong? Feedback oh wise ones?
Cheers
Charliewood

Parafin but be extra cautious when melting it. You don't want a fire. Study up on how to do this before attempting.

Of late I've been using a product from Rockler called green wood end sealer. It seems to be very similar to Anchor seal but a whole lot cheaper. Never seen any of these products absorb more than about 1/8 +- into the end grain and I use a lot of it.

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Lee Valley's version of the stuff Bob is showing (it is probably all Anchor Seal, an immulsified wax product)but I don't seal tops at all and I have never had an issue with them once they were cut to 3/16" thick or so. I seal billets if I keep them around and all archtop sets.

Shane

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Canada

Regarding pariffin wax...I seem to remember someone saying that it's soluble in some solvent...perhaps naphtha or kerosene. The idea was that it didn't require melting each time to apply. Anybody have clue about this?

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Parafin
Its a petroleum base product right?, so it would seem natural that a petroleum solvent would dissolve it, although Ive never tried - perhaps someone here has and will speak up.
Cheers
Charliewood

How about PVA glue? Admittedly my experience is limited to 5 lengths of Tasmanian Myrtle (enough for 2 back and side sets and one spare), but the PVA was recommended by a woodworking mate of mine and it's seemed to go alright over the last couple of months. Probably need to be scraped off or the ends just cut off once I start working the wood.

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I agree with Shane... I haven't found it necessary to seal softwoods once they are sliced to 3/16" (or so)thickness.
I have had trouble with gluing wood which has been end sealed with parrafin & avoid it like plague. It melts at a really low temperature & can migrate well into the board during hot weather. If I buy a B&S set with waxed ends I cut them off right away... Twice bitten, Thrice shy!
I've had good success using water base contact cement, both on softwood billets & hardwood B&S sets. A small foam roller works great for applying the stuff.