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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:11 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:18 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Australia
G'day all - I have been asked by bob_connor to come on to the forums and see if there were any questions I could answer re our Hard Shellac.

I actually sent a very long reply on a heap of questions to j.Brown last week.

Here are a few bits from that email. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing his email with you all. My answers and comments are in maroon and red

What cut weight is your Hard Shellac?  Approx 3.5 - 4lb cut
 
(you guys use a different lb weight to
the rest of us civilized
people)

Can it be thinned if necessary?  Yes!  With what?  I use
100% IMS
(Industrial Methylated Spirits) also known as
Ethanol or ethyl alcohol or Pure alcohol and in the USA gain alcohol

(ours is refined from sugar) 
 
I usually use pure
grain alcohol. Is that acceptable?  I guess
so. 

What is the repairability of the Hard shellac?  Never
had to repair any, let me know how it goes if you
do.
 
Won't be quite as easy as
regular shellac but will be a lot easier than
polyurethane.

Will it adhere to itself after curing?  Because it is shellac based it should adhere to almost
anything.

If the instrument is in the hands of someone who doesn't
know its hard shellac and they use regular shellac, will that work?  As above - Shellac will adhere to just about anything.
However because the hard shellac is DEWAXED it is entirely possible that
ordinary waxy shellac may craze much later in the instruments life due to both
shellacs moving at a different rate. This is not a foregone result purely
supposition and I have avoided doing it for this
reason.

Just a couple of
notes on the Info sheet that goes with the shellac. It says: 

"It is suggested that the first coat onto
raw timber be a coat of regular unhardened shellac, and that all subsequent
coats be done in Hard Shellac."
The
idea of this is to make it easier for stripping at a later date if major repairs
should need to be done, similar to the idea of putting a coat of shellac
under polyurethane
 (I was talking about furniture rather than
musical instruments when I wrote that).
The regular unhardened
shellac I referred was our Dewaxed White Shellac which is the same shellac as
the Hard. 
(missed that line out in the info sheet)
Since writing that a few years ago I have discovered that it is
just as easy to make a very weak solution
(say 1 part Hard
Shellac to 10 parts alcohol) 
and use this basically as a sanding
sealer prior to applying the first
coat.

 

Drying time is basically the same as for regular shellac, it may take
a little longer initially but not much. I used some today and it was flashing
off in a matter of seconds, but then again it's 105 degrees in the factory so
that would probably account for it. Seems to mix well with sweat too.

 

The cross linking of the surface takes around 20 days here in OZ but
with some of the extreme cold conditions in the US it could well take a bit
longer. I would personally allow 30 days for this process to complete in
winter.

The following was written after viewing this thread a week ago:

They
refuse to say whats in it? I'd be quite hesitant to ever use something on my
guitars that the manufacturer won't disclose the ingredients of. If thats the
case, I'm surprised anyone is using it at all.
Sorry but, I have no intention telling
anyone what the hardener in the finish is. Suffice to say it is approved by the
US FDA for use on food implements. When we first sent our Shellawax products
over the US the first thing that happened was a rival reverse engineered it and
came out with an inferior copy. I refuse to give anyone over there a foot up
with this one. Manufacturers don't have to disclose all
ingredients in finishes, only the harmful ones. In the case of Hard Shellac that
would be the alcohol.

 
Any
crazing or cracking after freezing and then immediately brought up to RT.

Hehehehe....   I suppose that could be a major problem over there. Not one
I would have ever thought of here, especially as it was originally designed for
furniture.

 

Hard shellac is basically the same in all respects as
regular shellac. It will adhere to itself. Use it the same way as ordinary
shellac for French polishing including the oil (I use mineral oil rather than
linseed). It cures in much the same time as regular shellac, it is the
cross-linking that takes the 20
or so days. i.e. prior to the cross
linking it will react like ordinary shellac and may be damaged by alcohol etc.
after the 20 days it has a much higher resistance to this
damage.

 

Most shellac takes around 3 weeks to fully cure anyway. This is why
a French polisher will tell the owner of a freshly polished piece of
furniture not to use it or place a heavy vase, etc on it for 3 - 4 weeks. If the
polish is old then it could take a lot longer to cure if at all. We give 18 mth
shelf life on our shellac and each bottle has the use by date on the side. It
should be good for up to 2 years at least but to cover ourselves we only give it
18 mths.

 


Hard Shellac was never intended for use on musical
instruments It was developed for use as the base for our Woodturners Friction
Polish (Shellawax) It's other main purpose is as a finish for horizontal
furniture surfaces (table tops, mantels, deck tops, bench tops, etc). It is the
musical instrument makers who have taken it to their hearts. I never had them in
mind and up until 12 months or so ago had no idea that there were any using it
at all, apart from a friend of mine who used it on a few of his harps. and raved
about it..... But he raves about everything so I didn't take any notice of
him.

As for cracking or crazing in extremes of temperature. it is possible that this may occur as the polish is Dewaxed White (bleached) Shellac so there is little or no elasticity in the finish. However it is possible to introduce an elasticizer to the polish that would most likely cure this if it were to be a problem.

I am currently flat out with major orders and getting ready for the start of our Woodworking Show season so have very little time to be able to answer questions, but if you have them, I will try and get in to have a look and answer what I can over the next few nights.

We are a small 2 person boutique specialty polish makers (my wife Pauline and myself) we work out of a small factory where we produce everything for each order from scratch. We do not keep massive stockpiles of product on the shelves, we prefer to have all our products going out freshly made to our customers. We blend, cook, bottle and label all by hand. We only use only the freshest and highest grade raw products for our polishes.

I came from a background of woodcarving, turning and fine furniture restoration, and my wife is an excellent French polisher. All our products are unique to us as they have all been developed by me for use in woodworking. Our friction polishes are second to none and have been copied (unsuccessfully so far) by a number of other manufacturers.

We are currently processing major orders for USA, Holland, Canada and servicing some 40 odd distributors throughout Australia.  I also own and run woodworkforums one of the bigger woodworking forums on the net currently generating around 12,000,000 hits per month. So I am kept pretty busy and have a bit of an excuse as to why it may take a while to get to some of your questions.

I hope this has been of some help to some if not all of you.

Catch all youall later. (got a son in Houston)

Cheers -  Neil 






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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:32 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks for taking the time to post Neil.

I seen the results of your Hard Shellac on Paul Burn's beautiful guitar some time back and from that moment, as I live in Aussie to, I decided that I to would use Ubeaut's Hard Shellac on my guitar when the time comes. So you should be receiving an order from me in the not too distant future, looking forward to doing business with you.

Cheers

Kim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:34 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
Posts: 4662
Location: Napa, CA
Neil...Thanks so much for your comprehensive response. While I am impressed with the information you have provided, I would still like to see more testing in the areas of repairability as compared to standard shellac and its performance under temperature extremes compared to the standard finishes for musical instruments. If I were French Polishing a piece of furniture, I would use it without hesitation.

I believe it's up to the builders to make up their own minds based on their level of concern with our unique issues. For those who have ordered the product, is there any testing planned?

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:59 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:41 pm
Posts: 975
Location: United States
First name: Tracy
Last Name: Leveque
City: Denver
State: CO
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
JJ,
Just got mine this morning, and will be handing some over to Edward Dick to do extensive tests on it. He said he will apply it on several types of wood and let it sit for 20 days in a warm room. After this, he plans to put it out in the freezing cold for a while(not sure how long) and see if it crazes. He will also try the opposite extreme this summer. He will also test for repairability since he is a repair person. He has french polished hundreds of instruments, so he is very intimate with shellac as a finish. I'll give a full report when I hear back. In the mean time, I'm just finishing up a concert uke and already have 2 coats of z-poxy on it. I will brush this hard shellac on it with a foam brush in about 2 months. So I'll give an update on that too.

Thanks Neil for the great reply. You are one funny guy! Please start importing this stuff to the US, we need good products like this. Even if it fails miserably on a guitar, I'm sure woodworkers would love to have this stuff available for furniture.

Tracy

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http://www.luthiersuppliers.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:19 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2004 3:50 pm
Posts: 4662
Location: Napa, CA
Great news, Tracy! Looking forward to the results. One thing...if he could use thin stock that includes QS spruce as well as IRW and other species for the environmental testing, I think that would be appropriate to our requirements.

Thanks, my friend!

_________________
JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:31 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:43 pm
Posts: 1124
Location: Australia
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burns
City: Forster
State: NSW
Zip/Postal Code: 2428
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Good, I'm glad this thread got bumped, I was going to bump it myself today. I didn't mean to abandon it but I've had a bad couple of weeks with illness, then injury, and then blood poisoning. You wouldn't beleive it so I'm not gonna tell ya Sometimes ya just gotta laugh (or end up crying)

As for repairability (that a word?) I sprayed the hard shellac on my guitar, then let it cure for a month or six weeks. Once it cured I had to level the finish 'cause I didn't have my gun set up right (new gun and not enough hard shellac to waste any setting up the gun for it) So I got a few sags and runs. Anyway, I happened to rub through the finish in a couple of places during the levelling. I simply FP'd the small areas where I'd gone through to the wood, buffed, and now I can't find those places. Invisible repair. How repairable this stuff would be after a few years is anyone's guess.

Oh, and french polishing with this stuff was exactly the same as with regular shellac, you couldn't tell them apart, though I've only FP'd one guitar with the normal stuff and one guitar with hard shellac, so take that for what it's worth. I only quit FP'ing the second guitar and sprayed it 'cause I got an air compressor for father's day and I got impatient wanting to play my new guitar rather than spend my spare time french polishing the bloody thing.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:37 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
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Paul, can you please post some more images of that lovely Tassi Blackwood guitar that you finished with hard shellac

Cheers

Kim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:43 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:43 pm
Posts: 1124
Location: Australia
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burns
City: Forster
State: NSW
Zip/Postal Code: 2428
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Sorry Kim, it keeps giving me an error msg when I try to upload an image.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 2:55 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:18 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Australia

And I too really appreciate your wit - you sound like a very cool guy. Yep that's me real cool older dude.  Like the wit, you'd love my book "A Polishers Handbook"


Regarding the ingredients of UHS is there any thing potentially harmful to me using traditional FP methods that is not in say a dewaxed shellac alcohol mix? Not if you don't drink it. Pure alcohol isn't too good for your health and the shellac will bind you up something awful. :o Could be a problem with the addition of an elasticizer or an extender like nbutanol, which slows the flash time and will help with levelling if applying the shellac by brush. (hope this makes sense)

Cheers - Neil :U



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 4:03 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 4:23 pm
Posts: 1694
Location: United States
First name: Lillian
Last Name: Fuller-Watson
State: WA
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Penn State isn't making it easy to order a bottle. There isn't any mention of having Ubeaut available on their webside and the product key that J. Brown gave doesn't work either. If this is a test run, they really aren't being fair to Neil. How are they supposed to gauge how well this is going to sell if they don't advertise it?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 4:23 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:43 pm
Posts: 1124
Location: Australia
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burns
City: Forster
State: NSW
Zip/Postal Code: 2428
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hey Neil, ever thought about building a guitar?

Then we could have a resident finishing expert


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
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What's that about some Arab bloke and a mountain?? Oh never mind. Here is a link to the thread where Paul posted some pictures of HIS GUITAR which was finished using Ubeauts Hard Shellac.

Cheers

Kim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:10 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:18 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Australia
Lillian - Penn State only have 8 dozen bottles, and it isn't one of their  specialty lines (woodturning) so I doubt they will put it on their web site any time in the near future. I sent it to them without them requesting it. Figured the first thing to do was get it into the country and to somewhere that people could contact. Maybe if the demand is there, they will place an order for more. Possibly in 5 liters as well as the 500ml bottles. In the mean time, may I suggest you use their phone number to order. Customer Svc & Orders Toll-Free: 800 377-7297

Paul - I already have a beautiful old Arnold Hoyer guitar that I found at the tip and repaired some 20 years ago. Tried to learn to play if for a while but figured my woodcarvers hands weren't meant to play a guitar or any sort of other musical instrument apart from bongos and maybe marimbas. (probably not really classed as musical instruments by most luthiers)

Cheers - Neil


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:46 pm 
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Koa
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Posts: 1055
Location: Australia
[QUOTE=PaulB] I've had a bad couple of weeks with illness, then injury, and then blood poisoning. You wouldn't beleive it so I'm not gonna tell ya Sometimes ya just gotta laugh (or end up crying)

[/QUOTE]

Paul,

Sounds like youre having a really bad run with your health. Hope you're on the mend mate.

Cheers Martin



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:22 pm 
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Koa
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Posts: 720
Location: Australia

Hi and welcome Neil . I used your product on my guitar , finished over a year ago .

I haven't had to repair the finish as yet , so can't comment on repairability . I reckon it should be O.K.

The bottom line is that it's holding up perfectly .It has copped the odd small scratch and such , but I figure that to be normal on any instrument .

I live in the Northern Tableland where winter is fairly cool. About minus 10 dgree C. The guitar has had a few cool night being left in the workshop and hasn't affected the finish.

Thanks Neil for a great product



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:10 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 10:43 pm
Posts: 1124
Location: Australia
First name: Paul
Last Name: Burns
City: Forster
State: NSW
Zip/Postal Code: 2428
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Neil- You don't have to be able to play like Tommy Emmanuel to build 'em. Lotsa fun even if you're a crap player like me.

Kim- Sorry buddy, first day back in the saddle after a couple weeks flat on my back, been kinda busy. Thanks for the nice words about my latest axe, and for posting that link, the mountain must come to mohommad, today at least I'm afraid. Thanks mate, I appreciate it.

Martin- You wouldn't beleive the sh** I've been through over the last coulple weeks. I'm well on the mend and actually feel normal again. No thanks to Doc death down at the local medical center. Thanks for your concern.

Hayseed- I'll resume our usual pm banter just as soon as I get a spare moment to concentrate. Probably tomorrow...ASAP in any case

Thanks guys

Paul


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:44 am
Posts: 319
Location: Canada
First name: Ron
Last Name: Belanger
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Neil,
Anybody in Canada distributing it yet. It is difficult to get volatile finishes shipped from the U.S.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:04 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:18 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Australia

Not at the moment Ron but talk to Lee Valley they may get some in with next shipment but that could be a fair while as their last one leaves Melbourne tomorrow.


Ben held up for 6 weeks because none of the shipping lines want to go there at the moment, something like 6 weeks delay to get into port due to ice. Least that's the story they gave me.


Cheers - Neil



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