Official Luthiers Forum!

I've been finishing my necks with True Oil and love the results....however I feel the True Oil takes a considerable amount of time to dry.

For you guys that use oil finishes, what do you use and how are your results?

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

I'm doing some with Danish Oil...about 4 applications. Takes about 3 days between applications. I may apply more but that's where I started. It has a dry feel as well as a dull sheen. On one neck I pore filled with ZP prior to 2-3 coats of DO and it has the best, smoothest feel so far.

I'd be interested in seeing your True Oil results and get an idea of the procedure.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Peter,
       How are you applying the true oil ? If you apply it to thick , as in , with a brush , it may take a while to go off . I have found it to go brilliantly on necks ,by wiping it on , french polish style . Goes off very quickly . I sealed and pore filled with shellac and mahogany dust.



Lawrence of Australia

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CRAIG LAWRENCE of AUSTRALIA
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I do a wipe on but its supposed to dry within a few hours....
That hasn't been the case as it takes me about a day or more to dry each coat.

Mine are open pore hand rubbed with wax.

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

I apply a thin coat of Tru-oil to a small area then Rub it hard until it gets warm. Then I move a bit to the next section then do it again one section at a time, until the whole neck is covered. It's usually ready for another coat in an hour or two.
I only use the bottled version, never the spray.

Al

Peter, give polyimerized tung oil a try, it takes about 3-4 coats, is really smooth and doesn't take to long to cure. Nice smooth, matte neck.

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whats the difference between polyimerized tung oil and pure tung oil?

thanks

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

I am using Tru-Oil also and I like it on necks. I apply it by putting a small amount on my fingers and then I rub it in with tmy fingers and sometimes the palm of my hand. I try to create enough friction to warm things up and have been able to apply up to three coats a day with this method.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

Polymerized tung oil has been treated so that it's already part of the way through the curing process, which is exceedingly long for pure tung oil. Because of this, the stuff cures way fast (on your part and in the container). I put on one coat at the start and one at the end of the day, thin and polished on like FP.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

Polymerized tung oil is tung oil that is heated to 500 degrees Fahrenheit in an oxygen-free process. This process increases the gloss and hardness of the regular tung oil and supposedly reduces its curing time. Tru-Oil is actually a poymerized tung oil. I like to use it on necks by wiping on thin coats with a shop rag. I generally wipe in a straight line direction with the grain rather than a circular method. In a 40% to 50% humidity environment, the oil dries thoroughly in 2 to 3 hours. A shellac sealer provides an excellent base for Tru-Oil.

Peter, you must have gotten hold of a bad/old batch or something. I've finished three whole guitars (not just the neck) with tru-oil and it dries really fast for me.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

I use Danish Oil

Tru-oil is actually polymerized linseed oil.

I use Tru-Oil and apply it pretty much as Jim does. I rub it in with my fingers. I used System-3 epoxy for the pore filler on the last neck and really like the way it turned out.

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53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

Typically, oil finishes are just applied with a clean rag, left to soak in (oil is a penetrating finish) and any excess is wiped off before it becomes sticky. In my shop I wait about 10-30 minutes.

Many oil finishes, like Danish Oil, have metallic driers, which hasten the curing or drying process of the oil. These driers are toxic at some level (if ingested?) so I like to use gloves to apply just to be safe. Also, be aware that these oily rags can start a fire, the process of drying can generate a lot of heat. Do your research and learn how to use and dispose of carefully.

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

Good info Steve et al. I've been using the product as you recommended

One question...since it is a penetrating oil, if it is applyed over epoxy or shellac, wouldn't those materials prevent the oil from penetrating?

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

JJ: I suspect you are correct about oil finishes not penetrating into the wood if applied over epoxy or shellac, although I have never tried this personally. In my furniture work, I like to be able to feel the wood and so use only an oil/wax finish to permit this.

I recently visited Evan Gluck in NY and was given the chance to play a lovely Telecaster style guitar with a Tru-Oil neck finish. I must say it was the nicest feel to a neck in many guitars!

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

..in many guitars I have played!

Since I have worked with a lot of oil finishes here are my impressions.

Tung oil. Better protection than linseed oil (slightly) and colorless. Does not do much to protect wood from changes in humidity. Comes in many different levels of sheen from satin to high-gloss. Will build to a nice film with a nice glossy shine with many coats. Used most frequently by turners who want the true wood color to come through. Cheap.

Linseed oil. The classic oil finish. Fair protection and amber in color which deepens over time. Does slightly less than tung oil to protect wood from changes in humidity. Most a matte or satin finish which will become more glossy with many applications, but not as easy to achieve compared to tung oil. Comes as plain linseed oil which never cures; boiled ("polymerized") which cures, but slowly (days or weeks) and; with driers added which cures faster, (days) but is toxic. Also cheap.

Varnish oils. One of the above with higher solids. Better protection, faster curing, and harder to apply because it has poorer flow qualities due to the higher solids. I think Tru-oil is a varnish oil. Some varnish oils include toxic additives and some are completely safe (e.g., Tried and True).

In my experience, the thicker the viscosity of the oil finish, the easier it is to apply and cure when applied very thin and warm (no open flames please). Oil finishes don't show dust as readily as film type finishes. I have read that oil finishes have an innate high damping property which may counter-indicates use on vibrating parts of an instrument.

Dispose of oily rags by immersing in water, for example in a bucket if you must store in the shop or drying outside on a fence for example, but not in a closed space where heat can build up from the curing process.

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

I use Tru-Oil in the spray can. Goes on very smooth, drys fast. A little steel wool and rub with a terrycloth rag. Very nice, slick neck.

Thought I's also add that Tru-Oil does seem to have a shelf life after the bottle has been opened. I buy it in the small 3 fl oz bottle and mark a date on the bottle when I break the foil seal. I toss after 120 days, although this might be overdoing it a bit.

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

I have used True Oil in a few guitars and it works great. The first coats go on fine and dry quickly but the lasts coats seem to take considerably longer...

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Peter M.
Cornerstone Guitars
http://www.cornerstoneukes.com

Thanks for the comment Steve, I actually rubbed it on with a sock. That is the kind of finish I like. Hope you are well.
Best, Evan

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http://www.NewYorkGuitarRepair.com

I use Liberon Finishin Oil (polymerized tung blend, near as I can tell...although it's vague), and I'd use Danish Oil without hesitation. I sand very, very fine (1200 grit, even 0000 grade steel wool), apply oil with an old cloth, let it sit for 15 minutes, vigorously wipe off the excess, repeat three more times, leave it for the night, level with 0000 grade steel wool if needed, repeat a few more days. And then leave it to harden out for a couple of weeks. Level with steel wool, buff with an old T-shirt, optionally apply a coat of hard paste wax and buff again.

Works for me. Oil finishes simply take a little longer to dry out fully.

Here is a trick I am sure many of your already know, but I provide in case you all don't - with any material, and oil finishes fall into this category, that reacts with air, drop marbles into your container to reduce the headspace. This way there is less air for your oil to react with, and the shelf life of the material may be extended.

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck