Ok, I am a soon-to-be first time builder. I have searched everywhere for decent tonewoods on the internet, and mostly through this site found some pretty good looking websites. While looking through ebay I found a seller with very interesting looking woods. Descriptions are very basic "Measures  20" x 14&1/2" x  3/4" ,  Seasoned & Surface planed...".
1. Would I be able to split the thickness(or have split rather)?
2. If this was the back, would it be impossible to find sides to match?
3. Would it work as a top?

In case the picture doesn't come through, the wood is

"Birdseye Maple LIONS Head BAss Guitar Burl Wood Lumber"

Oh, and if you think I should stick with something more basic for my first guitar (sitka top with rosewood b/s) tell me that too.

_________________
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian

_________________
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian

That's pretty, but I wouldn't use it as an acoustic back/side set. Glued to a solidbody electric guitar as a top, yes, but the mix of burl, quilt, flatsawn, crazy grain all over the place makes me nervous.

Chris,

That is wonderful looking piece of wood. But for an acoustic it is on the small side for a back but more to the point, birdseye will give you LOTS of problems. First you will have to find some matching sides, which you will probably be able to do but they will likely be expensive. They may also be a pain to bend, especially with all of that differnet figure. People have done it but this wood is probably not the best for a first guitar where you are going to be confronted with a number of other issues. That piece is probably best suited for what it is advertised for, a drop top on an electric guitar. Just so know, most OM and Drednaught type guitars are 20 inches long finished!

Good Luck

Shane

_________________
Canada

This burl would be great for a top layer for a solid-body, like the LesPaul outlined in the pic.
Probably not a good bet for an acoustic.
My advice would be to buy a 'box of wood'-type kit from LMI or similar (not necessarily the kit with pre-bent sides, etc) for a first guitar. It will get you a good collection of standard woods.
You can always customize your guitar with unusual bindings or headplate overlay, bridge shape, etc.

Cheers

John

Thanks for all your quick responses. Yeah, I think I will go for the tried and true woods for my first guitar. I realized this particular piece was too small for a dred size acoustic, but I thought I'd use it as the example anyway. If you want to check out his store, go to http://stores.ebay.com/Buzzsaw-International-Hardwoods interesting stuff.

_________________
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian

Buzzsaw's got some very, very nice stuff, although the prices have gone a little through the rough the last few years. But I still visit, ogle, drool over the stuff every so often :-)

Check out all of the sponsors who sell wood. Then get something nice, but not too expensive for your first. Mahogany, sapele, indian rosewood, Calif. myrtlewood, or walnut would all be good choices for your first. These bend well without breaking the budget.

Al

What everyone said. For a first, get something that won't break the budget or break on the bender. Indian Rosewood is really reliable for a first build, and Walnut is even easier. (I guess myrtle too, but I haven't used that yet.)

Jim

_________________
Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Since a couple of you brought it up. I really like the look of myrtle... at least from this side of the window shopping. Whats everyone's thoughts on the sound? Don't know if it matters, but I do mostly rhythm or fingerpicking (some classical).  Thanks again

_________________
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian

I always tell my students to go with East Indian and Spruce for their first. A good set of EIR can sound as good as anything, and it's a whole lot easier to work than many woods.

[QUOTE=Alan Carruth] I always tell my students to go with East Indian and Spruce for their first. A good set of EIR can sound as good as anything, and it's a whole lot easier to work than many woods. [/QUOTE]

Easier than Mahogany or Walnut? Since I have all three on hand, just wondering which I should be eyeing for my first attempt.

_________________
Aoibeann

EIR's dead easy. Not bent Walnut yet, but the mahogany I've bent has been a little more recalcitrant about staying where I tell it to.

recalcitrant

1: obstinately defiant of authority or restraint
2 a: difficult to manage or operate b: not responsive to treatment c: resistant <this subject is recalcitrant both to observation and to experiment — G. G. Simpson>

synonyms see unruly


I had to look that one up. Good word (reminds me of some of my band mates)!

Yes, mahogany can sometimes be a bit like that, there is also the problem of wrinkles on the insides of tight bends. EIR is easy, there is a reason it is so common.

_________________
Rian Gitar og Mandolin

EIR - Not difficult to bend, just take some care the first time.
Mahogany - can be recalcitrant (!)

Walnut - Place on form, step back, issue command "You will now assume shape of form". A little heat may help.
Yes, this one is easy. I hear myrtle is that way too, but again, no experience.

_________________
Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

[QUOTE=jtkirby] EIR - Not difficult to bend, just take some care the first time.
Mahogany - can be recalcitrant (!)

Walnut - Place on form, step back, issue command "You will now assume shape of form". A little heat may help.
Yes, this one is easy. I hear myrtle is that way too, but again, no experience.[/QUOTE]

So Jim, you are saying that I might possible be able to manage to get Walnut to bend without going through too many side set?   

_________________
Aoibeann

Lillian,

Here is my ten cents!
A thermal heating blanket, metal shims/strips and a homemade press styled on a Fox bender will save you money, time and stress. These items are well worth the expense if your aim is to have a trouble free side bending process.

Of course the copper pipe, gas bottle and water spray are instructive and many tonewoods will respond well via this method. This is a time honoured method requiring endurance, deftness of hand and an acute perception regarding how much pressure and heat is needed.

regards

Tim
Australian Tonewoods

I've had great luck with Myrtle on my first. Used a custom side bender with heat blanket, and it bent like butter. I bent one side the wrong way, and bent it back flat, then rebent, and only suffered a few small ripples that sanded out no problem. Great tonewood, very similar to maple. Good luck!
Tracy

_________________
Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

I think EIR is a little easier to bend than walnut, although it takes a bit more force in that it's stiffer. I have heard of folks bending EIR cold by accident, with no problems (except that it doesn't stay bent, of course).

Mahogany is either really easy or terrible, and you can't tell until you try to bend it. The one exception I'd make there is that quilt mahogany is always a pain. It looks so nice, though....

Something tells me that I am going to try and go for the Myrtle for my first. I've done a bit more research and it doesn't seem too scary of a wood for a beginner. Well besides the price jump from EIR... my wife owes me anyway.

_________________
Time is a great teacher, but unfortunately it kills all its pupils - Louis Hector Berlioz

Chansen / C hansen / C. Hansen / Christian Hansen - not a handle.

Christian