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After watching John Mayes dvd on the fingerboard, I think I am sold on the LMI fingerboard slotting jig. What are the people here using?

I use the stewmac template and blade, plus they sell the IBEX Fret rule that works WITH the fretting template, hand and hand. IM 100% happy with the stewmac unit - one other thing, the stewmac blade has thick side walls, you almost dont need stiffeners, I use what came with my table saw, just 2" thick washers, one inside and one out, the blade runs perfectly true.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Are you talking about the manual one he used in the video? I have one. I have the japense pull saw though.

The fixture is great... solid as a rock.

However, I have found a couple of "issues" with it... not problems so much, as things to watch out for.

If the guides are not VERY tight I find the ends of the blade wander a little and can scratch the ends of the fret slots, and if it is VERY tight it is really hard to saw.

The other thing is sometimes the slots are different widths... sometimes too big.

In all honesty this is probably bad technique on my end... but up to this point I have bought pre-slotted boards, and I am trying to get a little more self sufficent and relying less on "pre-fab" parts.... so that is what led me to this fixture.

If you buy it expect that it will take a little practice.

I think I am going to try using their "regular" back saw in it (like the one John has in the video). I wonder if the blade is stiffer and may eliminate some of the problems I have been having.... but I suspect that in the end it is just that I haven't figured out the technique yet.

but on a side note, I have a lot of poplar, ** nearly ** perfect fret boards to sell on ebay....   

Think I could get a good price for them?   

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Frank,
I'm not so sure the manual method is the best. It is the easiest if you do not have a table saw, but once you do a few fretboards by hand, you'll be looking for another method. The easiest method I have done is the one Robbie O'brien shows in his DVD's. The classical DVD shows a simple jig for use with a table saw, and the Steel String DVD shows a similar jig that is used on his own specific table saw. Both jigs are easy to make, and all you would need is the LMI fret blade. Robbie even shows you how to make your own fretting templates. You should check them out.
Tracy

I am just getting set up to do my own fretboards. I purchased a used small table saw, Jarmac 4" with 9"x12" table, which I will build a sled for like Sylvan's. I was told it will work just fine with the jeweler blades sold at MSCdirect. I'll let you know how it cuts when I get the blade.

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

Frank,
I also am using the LMi set up. ( Blade, stiffeners, and a homemade sliding table). My comment is..keep the blade clean. ( I use Easy off oven cleaner) Don't let the gum and residue of eboney or rosewood build up. It will dull the blade quickly. But the set up works great.
Glen

Don,

do you happen to have a model number for the blade you are using from MSC Direct?

Do any of you guys have the stewmac manual slotting jig? What do you think about it? I was thinking about getting that one because it's about $200 cheaper than the LMI version.

Robbie,
I think this is what you are looking for: Link
Tracy

Edward, I have the Stew Mac miter box style jig for cutting fret slots. It uses a template similar to the one the LMI jig uses.

I haven't really had any problems with the miter box part, but the saw that came with mine is totally worthless. It is my understanding they now ship a pull saw with it instead of the old push style saw they sold when I bought it. If this is true, you should be ok with the new style saw.

A friend brought over his new saw the other day and we cut some ebony with it. The difference was like night and day.

As I said the only problem I've ever had with the Stew Mac setup was not the jig but the saw. Apparently, they listened to their customers and got that corrected.

That's what customer oriented companies do.Dave Rector38483.3856134259

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Dave Rector
Rector Guitars

That looks like the one Tracy!

    Don A38483.5684490741

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

[QUOTE=Robbie O'Brien] Don,

do you happen to have a model number for the blade you are using from MSC Direct?[/QUOTE]

Robbie, I'll post it later this evening as I'm at work and the info is at home. I got the information on the blades from Bob Gleason at Pegasus Guitars. Here is a link to his use of these small blades to cut kerfs. Pegasus kerf cutting

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

So... I guess I'm still in the dark ages. Doing my boards with a block of wood and a hand saw.

Robbie, here is Bob Gleason's response to my inquiry.

Don,
    The company I've bought from is called MSC Industrial Supply Co. They are on the web, but I used the telephone at 1-800-645-7270. The blades I've used for years are 5" High Speed Steel Jewelers Saw blades. I use one size for rosewood boards, another for ebony, and a third for making kerfing. All of these have a 1" arbor hole. I was able to buy a 1" to 5/8" adaptor at my local hardware store. You may have to look around for those, or MSC may have them. They are too thick to use as they come, but I just sanded mine down.
    Where there is a will there is a way. The catalog number for the .025, which I use for fret slots on rosewood boards, is 03306255. The blade costs $14.79
in my catalog, but it is 5 years old, so they'll probably be slightly more now. I use .028 for ebony and .057 for kerfing. Works for me. Good luck.
Best regards, Bob
www.pegasusguitars.com

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

Thanks Don