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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 6:05 pm 
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I posted a couple of weeks ago here that I was redesigning my bridge. I worked on the method and some tooling and just finished my first prototype. I liked the CAD drawing, but it is always better to have a sample in your hand.

I'll go over the method in case anyone is interested.
First, blank out the bridge using the CAD drawing.


Put a radius on the pattern router bit.


Made a jig to clamp the bridge in with the pattern for the wing cut out.



Set the depth of the bit.


Cut the wings.


Drilled and C/sunk the holes.(Yes, the are not aligned.) Sanded to shape, sanded/scraped/polished.



I bet you all can guess what the wood is this time.
My kids like it, but my better half isn't as happy with it.



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:15 pm 
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Steve, I think that is very creative! It has a classy look about it. I like it!

Sort of reminds me of a smile!

As for the wood, I’m not sure, several kinds come to mind.

Cherry? Or, some kind of Rosewood?

Robert

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:29 am 
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I already know what the wood is, so I'll leave to another to guess. I like it Steve!

Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:44 am 
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Oh I like the heck out of that...that's nice, and very creative. That would appear to have all the needed functions of a good bridge, but with a very clean aesthetic. Nice work.

Let me ask you, what was your thought process behind the misaligned holes?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:27 am 
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let me take a stab in the dark the misalignd holes are for compensation?

theory= misaligned holes + cant of bridge = planned amount of
compensation?
let us know

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:36 am 
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[QUOTE=Bill Greene] Let me ask you, what was your thought process behind the misaligned holes?

[/QUOTE] If you guess the wood type correctly, I'll tell you.   

Just kidding. It was a prototype to see what it looks like, so I just didn't care about the hole locations. I just drilled freehand. It kind of likes like that doesn't it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:59 am 
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That's a very nice design Steve.Unique!Thanks for all the pics.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 3:18 am 
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Looks great Steve

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:17 am 
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Neat design, I love it. It is too dark for cherry, I think, but that is what it looks like to me otherwise. Nice, even grain, and closed pore structure, perfect for machining.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:24 am 
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Minor suggestion here. Looks like the router bit tends to burn and cause a minor amount of chip out. You might be able to follow it up with a mini disk sander in a dremel to cleanup the cut.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:14 am 
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Bloodwood?

I love the profile but personally would like to see more gentle sculpting and less of a sharp edge on the curves.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:15 am 
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Barry,
That you for tat suggestion.

BTW - This wood is a dream to work with, but pretty hard to find.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 6:28 am 
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Steve I really like the look of your bridge, and I have a couple of
thoughts. (I love all this design stuff!)

First...    Your design could lend itself to useing a two piece laminate for
the bridge, perhaps ebony on the bottom, that would show in the
recessed area around the wings.   And Rosewood on the top in the area
with the pin holes and saddle. (many other combinations could work
also.)

Second... Puting the bridge pins on an arc, I think would complement the
arc at the rear of the bridge.

Thanks Steve!!

Long

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 8:55 am 
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Bob,
I like your ideas. The first one was mentioned by Ron Belanger on the first thread. Great minds think alike!

I had not thought about your second idea. I think you are right. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 9:10 am 
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Steve...
will the jig ultimately have drill bushings for the pin holes and a slot for the saddle to be routed. That way all processes could be done without having to removed the bridge blank and realign in another jig.

And I do like the idea of a curved pin layout...fits the design and lessens the potential for cracking along a straight pin hole layout grain line in the wood.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:44 am 
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Very nice looking design. Structurally I don't have any experience so I can't comment on that (curved pin layout and such). But I definitely like the looks of it.
Great job.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:43 pm 
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Steve,
   I liked your design alot in Cad format, but like it even more in 3D. I really
see alot of practicality while still having a great artistic look with lots of
interesting lines and surface changes.

   Very nice...and a nice tutorial on how you took it from paper to wood and
ready for a guitar too.

   Nice work!!

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 4:11 pm 
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Thank you all for your kind comments and suggestion!

I thought I would give Bob Long"s suggestion a go.
I bet you've never seen a manzanita bridge before. Maybe you've seen an oak one before.\
Here is another prototype.





Thank you for the suggestion Bob. I like it a lot better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:23 am 
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Very cool Steve, I can't wait to see your new bridge on a Somogyi
influenced top!

Long

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:52 am 
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I really like this bridge design. As Bob recommends, this design has endless possibilities with laminate layers..


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:52 am 
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Steve, I like your design a lot. Very creative, very striking. Gives me ideas.

IMHO, the only part of the shape that seems weak (visually) is the back corners of the wings. You've got a different curve there on the two different prototypes, and neither of them look well-defined to my eye.

Just my two cents, take it or leave it.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 2:29 am 
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Steve,

It's looking good - the pin holes on the arc works well. One thought though. If you use a round-over pattern router for the wings I think it would blend in nicely and better than the ledge that is there now. Also I like the laminate idea.

There doesn't seem to be much of a back angle in the saddle slot on the oak one - at least compared with the cad drawing you did.

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De Faoite Stringed Instruments
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 3:19 pm 
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Keep in mind that the break angle has repercussions to the tone of the instrument... it is more than a simple aesthetic and/or structural choice to have the pin holes different lengths from the saddle.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:03 pm 
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I like the appearance of these prototype bridges, and I concur with the statement regarding break angle as related to pin hole saddle distance.
These bridges have a convential 'belly' extending towards the tailblock. I have one guitar with a reverse belly that extends towards the soundhole. I have never seen a bridge with 2 bellys, one conventional and the other reverse. I'm wondering how this idea would work. Something else to try I guess.

CrowDuck

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