Official Luthiers Forum!

I recently bought a late 30’s KG-14. I love this little lady; she has mojo out the ying-yang (IMO). And even though she sounds just like you would think and old KG-14 ought sound – I hear something more in her voice that is just begging to get out.

She does have issues that need to be addressed. Some might say that the historical value should be considered first when considering the repairs that are needed. But I don’t think she has enough historical value to warrant spending an extraordinary amount of money or time trying to restore her to an original condition. And I’m not well versed in what would have been original on this particular guitar anyway.

Besides, I’m not sure an accurately “restored” condition is what I want. I have a different objective in mind. I want to approach this project with the idea of doing what I can to unlock the potential that I sense is hiding in this little box.

Don’t get me wrong, I don’t want to just dismiss or ignore what would be historically correct when approaching the project. I would like to be true to the original design as long as it doesn’t compromise the primary objective – or get too expensive.

And I have absolutely no interest in re-finishing – or sprucing up her appearance. This grand old lady wants to sing – that is where her real beauty is. Besides, I think she really quiet beautiful - just the way she looks right now.

That’s where you guys come in. There’s no doubt – I’m going to need to ask a bunch of questions along the way. Would any of you be willing to help me? I intend to document all of the issues and my progress, and share the stuff I think you good folks would enjoy knowing about.

Why do I feel like a silly little kid that’s fixing to get into trouble?

Your Kalamazoo is worth $750 or so (according to my 2min research job on the internet) which is nothing to sniff at. It will probably appreciate in value (whatever the condition) as people are paying crazy amounts for anything old these days.

As Hesh has mentioned, pictures would help to get more specific advice.

I wouldn't recommend messing around with shaving braces or whatever to 'unlock potential'- just do whatever structural repairs are necessary and play it for what it is.

You could always build a replica and do some experiments on it. Having the original there would make the job quite a bit easier than working from plans.

Looking forward to pictures and more info. Those were pretty cool-looking guitars.

Cheers

John

First time for uploading pictures. If successful - this is a front view of the KG-14. I was changing strings when I had to confront some of these issues. Decided not to re-string until I could do something. There are 5 other pictures that will reveal the need for a new nut, new tuners, new saddle, bridge pins, and probably new bridge. There is a nasty crack up the back - that didn't show up until a few days after I got her. At least I didn't notice it. Can't help but see it now. The other issue I'm now looking into is the bridge plate. It feels rough, and the things all the way across the top from side to side. Is that common for a ladder braced guitar - or is it more likely to be like an X braced and only under the bridge?

If this upload works, I'll share pictures of the other stuff - and get your opinions.

Thanks for the interest.

And now I've had a look at the bridge plate. It needs to be replaced. Some of you may want to convince me that it can be repaired but I don't know how.

Pictures will follow - a few at a time.

And now for the rest of the story.

Judging from the damage done to the headstock finish at the foot of the nut, I’d say this isn’t the original nut. I appears to be made from plastic. It certainly was crudely made, There are sanding (or file) marks that didn’t show up in the photo, that are left over from shaping the nut. The slots are way too deep, too wide, not to mention all chewed up. The third (G) string, open position, is not high enough to even clear the first fret, unless you bring it to rest in a secondary slot on the side of /within the deepest slot for the string.

I’ve ordered a Stew-Mac bone nut.

Anyone see the problem here?

I'm going to start another thread for some of the other stuff - so it can be easier to follow particular issues.

Next bridge, saddle, bridge pins, and bridge plate.

Wow what a cool project and great pics Tony.
Get stuck in i say and make that thing the beaut it deserves to be again.
Barry

Hey! That's an L-OO body. Cool! Definitely worthy!!! BTW, the nut scratches do show up in your photo, but I can't see the problem with the tuning machines, other than finding proper replacements.

Whoever installed these mounted the left tuners on the right side and the right tuners on the left side; I guess because the hole matched up better(?). The results? In order to raise the pitch of the string when tuning, you have to rotate the gears in the opposite direction as you would normally expect (backwards). A nice little added quirk.

I would re-use them and just turn them around, except a few are tight at certain points in the rotation cycle. I think it is a quality issue with the gears not being cut right, so they bind at one point.

I have some Grover Sta-Tite tuners on order. And I think I'll fill the holes and install these on the correct side.

I miss the edit button.

Clarification. The holes I'm referring to are the mounting holes for the screws to install the tuners; and not the holes through the peghead for the posts.

[QUOTE=tony] Whoever installed these mounted the left tuners on the right side and the right tuners on the left side...[/QUOTE]
Oh man! It must have been done on a Monday.

Yes, that's an L-00 body. There are things that make it differ from a Gibson, like no trussrod and the ladder bracing. But it is cool!

_________________
Mark Swanson
Swanson Guitars
http://www.MarkSwansonMusic.com