Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Wed May 21, 2025 3:15 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:22 pm 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:18 pm
Posts: 87
Location: United States

Hi. On the last two gits I built, I let the top and back braces into the side kerfed linings. On the one of two I'm building now, I let the braces into the kerfed linings, and the sides, all the way to the outside. I did this because, 1- it's easier to do, and 2- because if the top were to be removed in the future, one would be able to see where the braces were, and unglue them a lot easier. I usually just go by instinct, except now with this olf, I can get good advice. Does one usually let them in to the outside of the sides?


Thanks, Alan.



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:32 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 7:13 am
Posts: 3270
Location: United States
Mine just go through the kerfing, not the sides.

Ron

_________________
OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 4:50 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:32 pm
Posts: 1969
Location: United States
My first guitars went just through the linings. My last 2 went all the way though the sides. My current 2 will stop before the linings on the top and go through the sides on the back. I hope that helps.
   
Seriously, I do hope it helps you understand that there are good reasons to do it each way. It is up to you to learn which way is your way. I'm on my eighth guitar and I don't know what my way is yet. Like many decisions in building, there will be strong opinions on which way is best, along with strong disagreements. That tells me that there is probably no right way, just different ways.
That is of course, just my opinion. YMMV

_________________
"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:06 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:21 am
Posts: 2924
Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Good answer Steve and most diplomatic of you

Cheers

Kim


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:42 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
Posts: 3788
Location: Russellville, Arkansas
The main danger with going all the way through side is having a brace end not cover by binding.

If you control the height of the brace end then there is no problem. I taper to .060 at all brace ends then cut a .065 groove to let them into, allowing for some glue in the joint.

But... I've seen more than one luthier make the ends too large and wonder why the binding didn't cover...

Good luck building.

_________________
http://www.dickeyguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:17 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 6:16 am
Posts: 2244
Location: United States
First name: michael
Last Name: mcclain
City: pendleton
State: sc
Zip/Postal Code: 29670
Status: Professional
i have at one time or another tried all three methods, through the side, just into the linings, and stopping short of the lining.

certainly carrying the brace through the side will result in the strongest box construction, and is simpler to accomplish than just letting them into the linings.

viewing the recent video presentation by ervin has set me to pondering on the matter again. and i have come to the conclusion that, for me at least, in future it is going to depend a lot on what type of player i'm building for, what kind of sound i'm tying to get out of the instrument. but certainly i think a lot more braces are going to be stopping short of engaging the linings.

i have a goodly stock of allied's opportunity eir purchased a year or two ago for the purpose, as well as mahogany b&s and neck stock and top wood, and i'm going to be doing a goodly bit of prototyping trying to refine things a bit.





Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:16 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:46 am
Posts: 588
Location: Is this heaven? "No, it's Iowa."
Letting the brace ends stick out through the sides introduces the chance that the braces might split when cutting the binding ledges with a router. Tight pockets in the lining and sides, and a sharp bit minimizes this, but cutting that end grain is something to be careful with.

long

_________________
"No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it's not the same river and he's not the same man.” -Heraclitus of Ephesus


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:37 am 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:18 pm
Posts: 87
Location: United States
First off, sorry about the mistake I made "Tetting the sides". It's really "Letting " the sides. Maybe we could call it tetting when it goes to the outside!  Anyway, great input here. I'll just try all the methods. I will sand the braces when they stick through the sides, good warning. Someday I'll get a dvd and find out everything I'm doing wrong, too. Also, I'll try stopping short of the linings, too. Most of all, experiment, listen, and come up with the way that's best for me. Thanks again y'all!   Alan.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:42 am 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:18 pm
Posts: 87
Location: United States
Oh, one more thing, Hesh, I like your "not letting in back braces". The reason for this, for me is, I'm making a git with 4 small soundholes in the upper bout, and removing the back would be a lot easier if something ever neede repair. No way to go through those little sound holes. Also, I figured out, duh, I have to glue the bridge on, before I glue the top on. Alan.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 3:44 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:32 am
Posts: 2687
Location: Ithaca, New York, United States
[QUOTE=AStass]Also, I figured out, duh, I have to glue the bridge on, before I glue the top on. [/QUOTE]

Not if you use a vacuum clamp. It is even possible to glue the bridge on using go-bars. I would definitely recommend either of these methods (preferrably the vacuum clamp, to eliminate the very tiny risk of breaking the top with go-bar pressure) over gluing the bridge on before gluing the top on. That would introduce a lot of problems.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:07 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa

Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 10:55 pm
Posts: 698
Location: Australia
[QUOTE=Hesh1956]   

Sorry Alan I must have given you the wrong impression. I do let in all of the back braces.

[/QUOTE]

Two of the OM's we are building at present have the back braces inlet.

Two we decided to let float to see if it would free the back up.

Not standard procedure, I know, but an interesting experiment nontheless.

The SJ 12 string has them inletted.

Cheers

_________________

------------------------------------------------------
Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 11:47 am 
Offline
Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:18 pm
Posts: 87
Location: United States

[QUOTE=Todd Rose] [QUOTE=AStass]Also, I figured out, duh, I have to glue the bridge on, before I glue the top on. [/QUOTE]

Not if you use a vacuum clamp. It is even possible to glue the bridge on using go-bars. I would definitely recommend either of these methods (preferrably the vacuum clamp, to eliminate the very tiny risk of breaking the top with go-bar pressure) over gluing the bridge on before gluing the top on. That would introduce a lot of problems.[/QUOTE]


Hi, and thanks. It might not be so much of a problem for me, because I am building Weiss. style gits, and if I'm really careful, rely on the centerline, if the bridge is within a few hundredths, I'll be okay, because it is a slide only guitar. That's one reason I like building them, no compensation, no tricky action, and when you're playing them, you use the fret markers as references, so they aren't as critical.


I'm a lazy hack. Alan.


 


 


 


 



Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 4:32 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:32 am
Posts: 2687
Location: Ithaca, New York, United States
I suppose, then, the only issue would be having the bridge in the way when doing the finish.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 17 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com