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I folks!
I have a customer that what's me to use Maple binding on an ebony fretboard. Great look but I am wondering how badly the open unfinished grain of the maple along the fretboard surface will discolor over time? Is there a solution for this? Something to seal it with?
Thanks

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Mario once recommended Walnut oil.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Lance I have used 2 wipes of thinned out Behlen's Rockhard carefully applied to just the bindings. That has held up pretty good.

Thanks guys, I knew there was a soultion! I have never used maple, so its new to me

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

JJ, could walnut oil be safely applied to the entire fretboard surface?

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

A little thin CA works well.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

[QUOTE=LanceK] JJ, could walnut oil be safely applied to the entire fretboard surface?[/QUOTE]

Lance...While I've not used the Walnut oil approach on the entire FB, I see no reason why it wouldn't work. The only discussion I seem to remember was related to applying the oil to the top surface of the bindings with a Q-tip.

Give it a try!...I doubt that it can cause any harm.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Lance,
Maple fretboard binding will eventually discolor. If your customer has sweaty hands and an aggressive approach, sooner rather than later. This may not be a bad thing.
I finished the flamed maple bindings on a OM several years ago with several coats of Tru-Oil. When it came back to me for an age-related set up, I lightly resanded the binding back to it's origional color and refinished with Tru-Oil, blending it into the neck.The customer was suprised and a tiny bit peeved, although it wasn't a big deal. I reassured him the next time I would leave it alone, and wouldn't charge him extra.( I hadn't planned to anyway). You just never know......

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It's not the miles ahead, it's the stone in your shoe


In Markham,Virginia

Lance, I seem to remember Mario saying that he used the walnut oil on
the entire fretboard. Some will say that it dries too slowly, but I think the
key is to put on lightly.

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

I paint shellac on with a small artists brush. 2 or 3 coats, holds up pretty well.

We just finished two OM's with Maple bindings.

Z-poxy'd the necks so that covered the bindings too.

Cheers

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Bob Connor
Geelong, Australia

how about sealing the bindings first and using c.a. to glue them on to the f-board. that way the edge is finished already.

would that work? I don`t know, never tried it.

Matt

I've tried shellac via FP on one neck...and it wears off on the neck and bindings quite soon. The good news...it only takes 15 minutes to smooth and reapply. Probably not something most customers would want to do.

I recently applied Danish Oil to 3 necks and bindings (including curly maple). So far after several months of playing, it has stayed clean. Then again, I always play with clean, dry hands. BTW...a cured oil surface is now my favorite neck for playing...it produces a dry and slick surface that I personally prefer.

You know, a little wear adds some character to the look and I personally wouldn't be so concerned. If the customer is finnicky about keeping the bindings pristine, tell him to keep it in the case and never play it!

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Lance, I've used curly maple bindings a lot.
You DO need to protect them, and I've used light coats of brushed on lacquer (very small brush) to good effect.
Use your steady hand, and hold off of the coffee till you're done.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com