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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 11:43 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 1:26 am
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Location: United States
Anyone know any tricks for removing burned markes from maple? I've tried scraping and sanding and even bleach (household clorox) but can't get them out.
TIA


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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 11:59 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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scraping and sanding will do it but it takes a bit of effort. don't know of any easy way.

best to try to prevent or minimize it in the first place.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 3:17 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 1:43 am
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Location: Morral, OH
If it is scortched deep it will not sand out. I had forgotten some maple bindings and cooked them too long in my Fox bender and they were scortched all the way through and would not clean up. They turned out to be very brittle and dark brown.

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 3:52 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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tim

don't you have a timer on your bender?

lucky you didn't have a side in there too.

my earlier comments were directed at the more common light scorchs resulting from sawing and routing pauses. even these can go too deep for removal without leaving noticable depressions in thin stock though.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 4:42 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Are the scorches in the waist?

I say burn the other side the same way and sunburst it.   

I love maple sunbursts anyway.   

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 5:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 1:26 am
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Location: United States
Oops. sorry guys, I should have clarified> The burns are in the neck lams. Right at the headstock where the bandsaw had to change directions. So I'm sure they aren't all "that" deep but it seams like they would have sanded out by now.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 6:00 am 
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[QUOTE=crazymanmichael] tim

don't you have a timer on your bender?

lucky you didn't have a side in there too.

my earlier comments were directed at the more common light scorchs resulting from sawing and routing pauses. even these can go too deep for removal without leaving noticable depressions in thin stock though.[/QUOTE]
Yes, I have a timer but it was at a time when I just got new blankets and hadn't figured out the best heat settings. You know the analogy - " If a little bit is good then a LOT has to be better" NOT!

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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 6:21 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

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you must be relieved that you didn't have a fire.

mario's idea of using the baby alarm is something i am going to implement. may put in another smoke alarm too.

your fortuitous narrow escape makes one realize that such bad things really can happen.


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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 12:22 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2005 3:38 pm
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Location: United States
Here is some rules of thumb I have learned
   Get a Thermomter. A tool more valuable than sandpaper when bending. I use a range from 275 to 325 and havn't scorched a thing since and have gotten great results.
   Temp is the key and if you can tell the temp you will be successfull.
john hall


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 5:02 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2005 7:44 pm
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Hi Paul! One Violin maker once told me that he used to remove scorch marks a solution of 5 to 10% citric acid in water. He wiped it on and let it dry, the sand it. But I?never tried it, so be careful.

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