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I'm doing some fretwork these days, and I'm finding it somewhat difficult to get the beveled edges of the fret ends very smooth and polished. I'm having no issues getting the frets leveled to the edge of the fingerboard, or beveled properly...or even rounded over. But I "think" the file I'm using might be a little rough and is leave chatter marks on the beveled edges - and those are hard to get rid of on just the tiny space.

Other than replacing my file (which I like a lot) with a smoother surface, can anybody offer any other suggestions. Thanks in advance for your time.

Bill

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I do the fret ends before I install them. That way I can round them over and leave then just a micron or two inside the fingerboard for a butter smooth feel along the fretboard edge. Very similar to the Fleishman method.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

I use the rotary tool fret polishers that Stewmac sells. They come in Two grits first removes scratch lines and the second polishes. I have also done this with micromesh. I have not found a fret file fine enough not to leave some scratches for this task.

Hey John, where can I find information of the "Fleishman method"?

[QUOTE=MLupien] Hey John, where can I find information of the "Fleishman method"?

[/QUOTE]

He used to have an article on his website but I just looked and couldn't find it.
Basically, he just rounds the ends into a portion of a sphere before installing them, usually leaving the end of the fret just inboard of the fingerboard edge.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

[QUOTE=John How] [QUOTE=MLupien] Hey John, where can I find information of the "Fleishman method"?

[/QUOTE]

He used to have an article on his website but I just looked and couldn't find it.
Basically, he just rounds the ends into a portion of a sphere before installing them, usually leaving the end of the fret just inboard of the fingerboard edge.[/QUOTE]

John,

Alan Dunwell has this info about shaping semi-hemispherical frets on his website. Is this basically the same method?

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Dave White
De Faoite Stringed Instruments
". . . the one thing a machine just can't do is give you character and personalities and sometimes that comes with flaws, but it always comes with humanity" Monty Don talking about hand weaving, "Mastercrafts", Weaving, BBC March 2010

[QUOTE=Dave White] [QUOTE=John How] [QUOTE=MLupien] Hey John, where can I find information of the "Fleishman method"?

[/QUOTE]

He used to have an article on his website but I just looked and couldn't find it.
Basically, he just rounds the ends into a portion of a sphere before installing them, usually leaving the end of the fret just inboard of the fingerboard edge.[/QUOTE]

John,

Alan Dunwell has this info about shaping semi-hemispherical frets on his website. Is this basically the same method?[/QUOTE]


Hi Dave, I guess it's similar but it sounds like he's fretting the board before attaching it to the guitar, something I don't like doing. I buy my fret material from LMI in large rolls that are just the right radius to make the job easy so I don't have to re-radius (verb usage to make Howard smile) them before installing. I just round the ends with a file and smooth with fine paper. I use Tim Mcknight's method of flattening the fingerboard (see jigs & techniques above) and this usually leaves very little in the way of fret leveling after the job is done.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Thank you gentlemen...

My two cents:

After filing the bevel on the fret ends, a sanding block works well to smooth them. You can experiment with grits, and work through progressively finer grits, to see what works for you to get them smooth. You can also finish up with micromesh. With this method, I have no trouble quickly getting the fret ends looking and feeling great.

John's and Harry's method (I haven't seen John's, but I've seen Harry's) is cool, and I'm sure there are players who would prefer not to feel the fret ends at all. That's the smoothest ride in town, for sure. However, as a player, I don't have a problem with the feel of fret ends, as long as they are nicely done. They don't even have to be rounded, just smooth and with the sharp edges knocked off. I actually like to be able to feel the fret ends as I slide my hand up and down the neck. It gives me just a little bit of tactile reference for where the frets are, as an aid for playing without looking at the neck.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I use stewmac's aluminum radius bars with 320 gold to level. Then used the stewmac diamond 320 file to bring frets back to round ( making sure to leave a very fine flat across the fret) I then use micro mesh up to 12000 grit which puts a very nice finish ( mirror like). I also have a buff wheel dedicated just for frets that I often go to. It's charged with Menzerna Fine - Ivory. It brings the frets up to the same quality as the Micro Mesh. I also have the grinding wheel polishing bits Michael spoke of. I never got the results I wanted with that method. But I think I am going to try it again. It's probably the one method that needs the least prep work and gives the fastest results ( Both MM and Fret Wheel require taping the ehtire fretboard off).

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

I find those thin 3M sanding sponges work perfectly for fret ends and for initial polishing of frets after leveling.  The sponge allows the abrasive to contour nicely around curve sufaces.  They are a bit spendy and don't last long but you can find some decent deals on the internet if you look around awhile.  They have their own ridiculous grading system.  I use the "super fine", "ultra fine" and "micro fine" before buffing.  It goes quick and takes about a half sheet of each grit per fret board.  I also use them on my fingerboard prior to fretting and on my bridges.  The micro fine leaves a nice sheen on ebony and rosewood.  If only they made a "super duper holy cow that's fine", I could get rid of my buffer.

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http://www.chassonguitars.com

Sylvan Wells also has a "system" for installing frets...it is fabulous. A little time consuming until you get good at it. I call it the "Wellsian System" and charge an extra $300 for doing it. You might want to call him, I believe he teaches the method in one of classes.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Thanks for the plug, Dave. I am glad you are using the technique and
making money with it! It is not my method--it originated with Harry
Fleischman. He, and I, call it the semi-hemispherical method of fretting.
Essentially, the frets must be cut to their exact length and the ends are
rounded into a semi-hemispherical shape. Once installed, they require no
further work. The ends have been highly polished on buffing wheels
before installation. The system is not difficult-in fact, I think it is much
easier than normal fretting methods and much more exact. It is all about
learning a technique which took me about 6 months to develop. If you do
the job in the right sequence with the right technique, the frets come out
as close to perfect as can be attained manually. No loose ends and, most
of all, the frets are actually inset about .010" from the edge of the
fretboards eliminating those sharp fret ends that occur when the
humidity changes. Inset also allows the luthier to thoroughly round over
the edges of the board so the fretboard feels like it has been thoroughly
broken in over many years-when it is brand new!
Lastly, the technique is much faster than regular fretting methods.
I basically took Harry's method (which is described in a GAL) and made it
work in a consistent fashion but, and I stress, I owe the original thought
to Harry. I do teach the method and if anyone wants the details feel free
to e-mail me!

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com