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I am almost ready to fit the top on my first guitar but am not clear on exactly how far to run the x braces into the lining and should they be glued . I have read the thread on Charles Fox's method of feathering but wanted to stick with tradition on the first instrument.Any help with details would be appreciated.

regards

Craig.

 

some take the brace right through the side whilst ensuring the the brace is thinner than the binding/purfling which must cover it. we have had a number of pleas from those who have forgotten this small detail. most taper the brace down to about 1/16" - 3/32" or so, though i have seen them up to 1/8".

others prefer to leave the brace just long enough to butt up to the side and notch the lining accordingly.

For several years I painstakenly notched my X-braces all the way through the rim with about an 1/16: of brace depth left. I used this as a means of indexing the tops center alignment to the centerline of the rim assembly. It made maligning the top at glue up a no brainer. i now use two small dowels in the neck block to set this alignment much as Martin does, and after reading of builders having braces swell and separate the binding from the sides. I have for the past two years feather to near zero right at the lining on all my braces

Through the kerfing but not the sides. If you inlet them you certainly need to glue them, otherwise you could get a buzz or rattle there.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

I fit them into the linings but not into the sides.

Also it's much easier if you leave the braces slightly thicker at the ends, cut the pockets in the linings for them, then shave down the brace ends until they are a perfect fit.

As others have said glue.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Thank you one and all for your replys. You have answered all my questions and a couple of others I hadn't thought of . However my plan to assemble the box this week has suffered a major setback with a cracked side .  While trying to fit everything together in the body mold I was a little careless and paid dearly for it. Is there any point in trying to repair this type of damage? Regards

Craig.

Craig that looks easily repairable, it just need gluing down with a shaped caul on both sides, then sanding out, final sanding will probably take care of it.

You already have an outside caul ready shaped, your mould, make up an inside shaped caul, bit of glue, I'd use fish or hide but AR glue will do, some even use that awful CA stuff, bit of wax paper so you don't glue your sides to the mould, then clamp it all together nice and tight to close the split.

Colin

_________________
I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Colin that's encouraging news for me. My concern is that I need to touch up the waist and upper bout bends on both the sides as they have sprung back noticeably.  Strangely the lower bout bends have not moved. Should I glue before I attempt this or after?

Regards

Craig

 

 

I assume you'll be using heat to rebend, I'd do that first and glue after, as the heat will weaken the glue used to repair the crack.

Peter