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Anyone have advice on spray guns? I've been reading up on the options and I'm not sure which way to go. Since I don't have a compressor I first thought that a HVLP turbine would be the way to go. Some of the info I've read suggests that an HVLP conversion gun is the way to go. Anyone have a chance to compare the two?

Thanks,

Joe Volin

Hi Joe,

I'm using a Campbell-Hausfield(?) HVLP unit that I've had for 7 or 8 years from my furniture building days...it seems to be alright for guitars, what with all the sanding back we do between coats...so overspray and roughness aren't a problem as they would be with cabinets and furniture pieces...and relatively cheap...I think it cost under $200 when I bought it.

Larry

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

If you go for the compressor+gun route, I heartily reccomend a SATA MiniJet 3 (or 4, whatever the newest SATA MiniJet is these days). Probably the best quality gun you can get, but it's got a price tag to match (should be able to find it for less than 200, though, last I checked). I've heard good things about Fuji's HVLP setups, though.

the decision to go for a turbine hvlp system or a conversion gun may also involve decisions as to whether you plan on using vacuum clamping, or air powered tools in your building process, e.g everything from ros, inline drills, die grinders, including the mini ones used in inlay work.

your compressor would need to be sized to support all your intended uses.

gun selection is a strange game. some of the authorities eschew hvlp and use and recommend cheap hplv guns from suppliers like harbor freight, especially with waterbourne. others say use the best you can afford.

if you are commercial in some jurisdictions the environmental protection folks are death on hplv with nitro because of higher voc emissions.

i haven't used waterbourne, but i still make do with cheap ones for nitro. perhaps as a result i have to work harder on my sanding and buffing.

I recently decided to toss my cheap guns and go for a good one(polyester finish will make you think this way...), so I contacted Paul masters at

Spray Gun Repair, LLC.
Phone 1-860-928-1802
Fax 1-860-963-7715
Toll Free 1-888-582-1095
e-mail "pmasters@spraygunrepair.com
On Line Store "www.spraygunrepair.com"

because he is a specialist in this field. He recommended the DeVilbiss "SRI-630-10" over the Sata minijet(and he sells both!). He stated that they are about equal in quality and price, but replacement parts are way, way more afordable for the DeVilbiss.

I was going to buy it off him right away, but I stopped in at our local auto parts place to see if they would handle replacement parts(or would I need to order them from Paul at the time I got the gun), and lo and behold, they had one there! Great gun. I'm still learning it's wants and needs, but can it ever lay down a coat, and with little overspray(think back to the polyester comment..). I can recemmend this one if you go the compressor route, and the compressor is always handy to have around, anyhow. This gun doesn't need a big compressor, BTW.Mario38512.705162037

If you decide to go conventional spray gun over HVLP I would highly recommend a DeVilbiss Model JGA or a Binks Model #7. Make sure they are set up with tips, nozzles and needles to spray [Enamel] automotive paints. Don't get an automotive gun set up to spray lacquer as the above mentioned parts are sized to small and won't lay down a nice smooth wet coat.

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

I have sata guns.They are pricey but I use them more than the average guy. I also got a grizzly self contained unit that is rated for lacquer. This is in the $200 range and actaully does a fair job.
   I got it for my wife to paint the house . I tried it and it will work well for most applications as it is self contained and the unit feeds out of the paint can.
   We do more sanding back and polishing that as long as you can attain somewhat of an even cover you will do well. The trick is to learn to do the filling , and wet sanding to prep for final buffing.