Official Luthiers Forum!

A friend of mine "swears" by the higher grit sandpaper that StewMac carries, which has the name Kovax on it. Kovax, is manufactured by a Japanese firm, and is distributed in the States as "Eagle", or so I've been led to believe. This friend of mine claims that this particular paper - the StewMac paper - has grit SO uniform, and so much sharper, that is is superior to almost everything else available.

My question: what brand name are you using for wet sanding in the 1500+ grit range, can it be bought somewhere other than StewMac and are you totally satisfied with it?

Thanks greatly.

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I use 3M Imperial wet sanding paper. I have it in 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000. I am sure that is available in higher #'s if needed. I have used this paper for years and find it to work extremely well. Any local auto body paint and supply store will most likely have it on hand as well as Keystone auto body part and supplies stores Good Luck! 

I also use 3M that I get from an auto supply store that specializes in auto finish supplies. I have never used StewMacs micro cut papers so I cant compare. Now if you are referring to MicroMesh! that is a whole new ball game as it is not a paper but a cloth backed abrasive impregnated polymer pad. I regularly use Micromesh to polish with. I buy direct from Micro-Surfaces

I use Micromesh with a stiff foam backing pad. It is available in smallish ~3"x6" sheets, ranging in grits from 1500 to 12000. I buy it at Rockler, who sells it by the piece. Kinda pricey stuff, but it lasts a loooooooong time. For leveling and polishing out a french polish finish, I start with the 1500 and work up to about 4000, then hit the finish with a good, fine polishing compound. My favorite is Hut Ultragloss plastic polish (found it at Woodcraft). Works great for buffing out by hand. Dries a bit too fast to be used with a buffer.

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

Thanks all.

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I like the soft-foam Abralon pads for this, velcro-backed for use on a
RO (or by hand of course).  1000-2000-4000 grit, they last a long
time.

Keep in mind there are two different grading systems for sandpapers -
European (FEPA, or P-grade) and North American (CAMI). The systems are
very different, and I don't have a list of who uses which. A CAMI graded 800
for example, is about the same as a P-1500. A CAMI 1500 would probably
come to around 4000 rated in FEPA / P-grade. Make sure you know which
grading system your abrasive is using before placing a big order.

_________________
Eschew obfuscation, espouse elucidation.

Good point David, and when speaking of MicroMesh there is a third. Here is a comparison chart for MicroMesh to FEPA and CAMI

What David said and Michael's chart. Mixing the two systems can produce nightmares.   Took me a while to figure out what was causing my nightmares.

[QUOTE=erikbojerik] I like the soft-foam Abralon pads for this, velcro-backed for use on a
RO (or by hand of course).  1000-2000-4000 grit, they last a long
time.
[/QUOTE]

I get MicroMesh the same way I even have a 1" thick foam hook and loop pad for my ROS and finishing sander and you can buy 6" or 5" disks with or without dust collection holes as well as full sheet or 3 x 6 sheets

I like the abralon pads for higher grits too.

_________________
Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

[QUOTE=npalen] What David said and Michael's chart. Mixing the two systems can produce nightmares.   Took me a while to figure out what was causing my nightmares.
[/QUOTE]

Yeper it will really mess you up as you get to finner papers. Just try to remove CAMI 400 scratches with FEPA 600. Then you suddenly realise you going up in micron instead of down

OK, for you guys who clearly know what you're talking about...what's the general method you're using for wet sanding with a ROS. So far I've done it only by hand, and that's been fine, but there just HAS to be a more automated way of doing it.

Also, I stopped by the auto body store on my way home and picked up a couple of small sheets of 3M Imperial. Mine has nothing on it except the name of the paper, and the grit, and "A" weight of the paper. I'm going to assume (yes, I know what they say about that), that it is CAMI or ANSI...but how would one tell?

And thanks, you folks are great!

Bill

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

First I've heard about the 2 systems...interesting.



For wet sanding, I make up a bucket of soapy water (mild hand soap),
and usually level off any imperfections or orange peel with 600 grit
paper by hand....flat wood block backing for flat surfaces, stiff foam
pad for carve tops, soft foam pad on edges.



Then I switch to 1000 grit Abralon on the RO, soaked in soapy water
& squeezed out.  It flings foam everywhere, and I have to
rinse, dip & squeeze again...but it works well on the front &
back of the body and headstock.  Edges and neck I do by hand in
the same way.



Then 2000 grit, then 4000 grit....same way.  The soapy water
suspends the fine powder that gets eroded and doesn't allow it to
collect on the body.  You rinse it off the pad in soapy water and
keep going, until the shine starts to emerge with the 4000 grit.



Then buff.

Pneumatic ROS ONLY PLEASE! I like you guy to much for sparky to get ya

Thanks greatly, everyone. OK, last question: My compressor isn't terribly large. At 90psi, it'll hold 5.8scfm steady..but not the 14 that the dynaorbitals use.

Any good ideas on a pneumatic sander that can be used with a smaller compressor?

_________________
Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I am afraid you are looking at very short duration at best ROS just eat air. This job in my opinion is best done by hand. It is real easy to sand through a large area without noticing using the ROS