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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 12:41 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:07 am
Posts: 161
Location: Ulster Park, New York
First name: Bill
Last Name: Sterling
City: Ulster Park
State: New York
Zip/Postal Code: 12487
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
 I while back I posted a question about resaw blades and I was just reading another post about resawing green wood. Is this a common practice to resaw freshly sawn wood. I am getting some quartered walnut from a local mill I was going to dry it for a while then resaw it. Would I be better off to resaw it now taking into consideration shinkage? Would this speed up the drying process to resaw it now it would stand to reason if it is much thinner to begin with. I realize I will have to sticker it and weight it .

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 7:50 am
Posts: 3152
Location: Canada
I like sawing green. I just did some claro that was dripping wet about a week ago. Getting quite dry already!

Shane

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:37 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:25 am
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Location: Russellville, Arkansas
A little drying hint. Walnut pigment will gravitate toward dry stickers, leaving heavy pigment stripes in the wood that may not sand out easily. (experience)

I recommend wetting your stickers before stacking, it really seems to help.

Cutting it green is definitely the way to go, it just dries so much faster that way. Weighting the top of the pile may be helpful too. Good luck.

A fan blowing through the stack will assist drying too.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:05 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 2:58 am
Posts: 552
Location: Canada
I too prefer to resaw green wood.
The moisture in the wood lubricates & cools the blade making the cuts cleaner & more accurate. (at least... it does with my resaw setup)
It is important to remove all of the sawdust from the pieces as soon as they are sliced. The dyes in the wood can be released from little balls of wet sawdust & cause deep staining. I use a large drywall scraper, but a stiff brush works well too.


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