Well, the usual check list I go through is such.
Bottom of slot, difficult to check but with a few small straight edges you
can guess pretty well. Sounds like that's been done.
Bottom of saddle, I always always pencil the bottom of any saddle and do
a final check/truing on a surface plate or glass plane that I have
sandpaper mounted to. No saddle bottom is ever really true off a belt
sander.
Then I typically miter or round off the edges of the bottom for most
transducers. A quick file across the bottom corners, taking off .005" or so
on each side can help.
That said, none of these sound too likely in your case because the coaxial
transducers are usually the most forgiving out of all the UST styles of
small inconsistencies in the surfaces.
So there's the fit. If it's tight enough that it has to be pressed in to the
slot with any pressure, that can cause problems. This goes both to saddle
width and length. Again not too likely if you just lowered and existing
saddle. You can even rub some wax on the saddle sides and ends if you
want to rule it out entirely.
I'm not sure how far you ramped the slot where the G leaves the pin hole,
but increasing the break over angle even further by ramping it in a bit
further may help.
Then there's the 1 in 100 I come across that still will not cooperate by any
normal means. Grrrrr. For those you can try the old slotted saddle trick.
Drilling small holes through the saddle, between the strings and right
below the surface of the bridge, then slotting from the bottom to the
hole. This allows the saddle to actually flex a bit between each string and
conform to inconsistent surfaces.
Or just scraping away freehand from the higher response areas on the
bottom of the saddle. Or placing a soft ultra thin shim or two (like card
stock) underneath the transducer toward the very end.
I really hate doing any of those last methods, because I think of them as
a shoddy quick fix to a symptom, without every really diagnosing or
addressing the problem. I will typically reroute the saddle slot before
resorting to those methods. Sometimes however it seems they can't be
avoided, usually on cheap guitars with cheap pickups. Go Figure.
By the way, I don't think Fishman sells any coaxial pickups as a standard
product, but you do find them in cheap guitars as a cheap factory pickup.
I've never liked them, and it wouldn't surprise me if the pickup just has
some dead spots. You could even try rotating the pickup to a different
side up to see if it helps.
Good luck, and I'm glad it's in your shop instead of mine.